You can pretty much guarantee that if I am silent here AND on Instagram, I probably have been delving deep in sewing, and that was for sure the case this past week and weekend. (I haven't even used Instagram from Saturday forward, and I blame the oversaturation of sewing for that, as Instagram couldn't be any easier to use.)
Anyhow, there is a Vintage Pattern contest running over at Pattern Review, and though I really (honestly!) don't care about winning, I like to have an excuse to make something, and this contest seemed the perfect kick in the behind to get my sewing mojo on and get a dress done in time for school to start (and with the perfect retro flair, the way I really like it).
I have in my stash of patterns this beautiful Vogue Couturier pattern from Valentino from 1970. I have a real sickness for these older patterns. There's also the Vogue Paris Original patterns that are lovely, too (I made this LaRoche pattern a few years back). If I see that one or a few are for sale and they will suit me and fit me, I'll put in a bid on ebay or purchase them outright from Ebay.
There is a lot of history on Vogue designer patterns, and this very recent (as in yesterday) article from the New York Times explores it a bit. They even mention Valentino in the article.
I knew most of what was in the article, but it always bears repeating, the garment on the cover of these patterns ARE the garment as designed and shown by the original designer, and the pattern makers from Vogue use that as their base for their patterns. So I was basically recreating the original garment that Valentino crafted even before I was born. This is still true today, and the Anne Klein dress that I copied was from an original from the Anne Klein line.
Obviously I really dig the style and silhouette of the dress and if a current designer or clothing company made a dress like this, I would want to buy it. The pockets are integrated into the front dress design, and those belt carriers are part of the dress design, and are NOT added as a waistband feature from a waistband pattern piece. Instead they are part of the dress front and pocket and dart pattern piece. (All in one. When you see the instructions below, you will agree with my hesitation in cutting my dress fabric in the convoluted design they wanted me to...of course it worked out, clearly, but I couldn't believe that design would lead to what you see above.)
The dress, as made up, is very pretty, but practical. I made it from a double knit, so it is very comfortable and stretchy, but the pockets and belt add a level "I didn't know I needed these features until I had them here." I now want all my dresses to have these details. Especially the pockets, which are not your typical inseam pockets, hiding from the world. These are integrated on the front and help showcase the unique seaming.
Nearly all my belts fit in these carriers, and the fancier, jeweled belts helped create a more formal look, while this patent leather one suited a more casual outing, like teaching school, or going to church.
The mockneck is very comfortable, and though it could read frumpy, the sleeveless and fitted bodice help keep it from looking too dated.
Though I have few plans to wear the cloche with the dress, I did like the look, and would possibly pair the two for the right occasion. :-)
The back was far less complicated than the front, but I will say the dart that extended from the back yoke to the hip was one of the longest I have ever encountered. It also integrated the belt carriers into it, so there was a bit of finagling there, too. There was also an additional back carrier that had to be created by making a welt insertion for the facing piece, and that terrified me that I would place the welt in the wrong place and ruin all my work.
Because my hips are larger than the pattern called for, I had to bring my seam allowances from waist down from 5/8" to 1/2". If this had not been an a-line skirt, I would have likely had to add allowances to the pattern itself as no straight skirt from this era would ever fit me in a size 12 (the hips on a size 12 are a 34, I am that plus 5!).
The mockneck called for hook/eye closures that are hidden, but I wanted to use a loop/button closure. I wish the loop was a bit tighter, but I don't think it totally ruins the look of the dress, either.
I love this fabric. It was exactly right for the job. The weight of the double knit means I can wear it in non-summer months, but it also meant I didn't have to try a designer pattern from 1970 in a non-stretch woven. Plus, it even looks a bit like the original Valentino dress fabric (though I know that was likely a brocade of some sort).
Here's a good closeup of the fabric, the carriers, and the pocket detail. So glad this all worked out. :-)
Yeah, those are the (dang) clear directions. But look at the illustration for #2, that was the shape I had to cut. I mean, it makes sense how that becomes what you see on me, but it does require a bit of a leap of faith that it will all work out.
If you would like to see my pattern review, it is here.
In other news...before I even started my pretty Valentino dress, I had to complete this ridiculous Piranha costume. I used Simplicity 2853 for the pattern, and yeah, I recognize it doesn't look a thing like the pattern shows. That was because I took a lot of liberties with the design. It all worked out and the swim team LOVED it (or was scared, rightly so). What a monstrosity. LOL. :-)
Okay, that's all for now. I hope all of you are doing well, and I'll be back soon.
Showing posts with label Fabric Mart. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fabric Mart. Show all posts
Wednesday, August 3, 2016
Thursday, July 7, 2016
Made by Me File/OOTDs: Four Recent Dresses!
Hey, all! This will be a photo-intensive post, but to ameliorate how much reading you'll need to do here, I will save the nitty-gritty details about construction and pattern/fabric reviewing to the posts on that I have made at either PatternReview.com or the Fabric Mart blog. Those links are scattered about. :-)
I hope all of you have been well. I have the night off from children and hubby (I am in Georgia with his family and they all want to go and get Krystal and see a movie, I gently declined both), so I am using it to my full advantage!
This is a dress I made in April for our annual auction at our school. This year's theme was "My Big Fat Greek Auction," and it was recommended to wear dressy blue and white. I think I accomplished that. ;-)
The other years I have done the same, made up a dress to go with the theme. Last year's was on Space, so I crafted a galaxy printed dress, and the year prior was Kentucky Derby, and for that I made a floral sheath and paired it with a light blue hat.
The dress is made using Vogue 1499, an Anne Klein pattern, that features a full, pleated skirt, and a fitted bodice with distinct seamed details and cap sleeves.
It was an easy make, but because I lost any stretch in my fabric by placing the border so it would run parallel to the floor, I had to be extra sure I was right about my size on my bottom half. It fits, and it fits well, but if I gain any weight between my waist and hip, I will definitely be unable to wear it in the future. (Must always ensure I get my steps in and swim!!!)
This dress is magic, I can see why Anne Klein has it in her collections. (It is also available in a yellow stripe and grey stripe!) It is very fit and flare, so it truly emphasizes the waist, and if you use a border print fabric, you can make sure to place the print in a way that draws the eye to it.
The fabric was a leftover from Maggy London (her London Times line), and because I like to sleuth for designer fabrics and how they were used originally, I found this pin of the same fabric being used in a similar way.
I had a great time at the party, and the dress did well, as I felt comfortable and a bit carefree.
I wrote a blog post at Fabric Mart and did a review of this at Pattern Review, if you would like to see more on this make.
I made this dress for my June make for Fabric Mart. I was unsure of where I would wear it, but after I was done with it, I decided it was comfortable and lightweight enough to wear to a winesday night a few weeks back. It held up well, and didn't wrinkle at all, even though it was steamy and hot that day.
The dress is made from a silk double georgette, which is (to quote a lol sentence I recently read in a sewing forum) "the devil's favorite fabric." It is a right B**CH to work with, and though I spare you the details on working with it here, you can read all about it over at the Fabric Mart blog (link is below the last photo).
For all of its work, the fabric sure is beautiful, and suited the pattern's silhouette quite well. And because I underlined it in a light blue cotton voile, it was easier to work with (eventually). It also was incredibly breathable and airy and feels fabulous next to my skin.
The pattern is a reprint of a vintage 1969 Simplicity pattern. It is Simplicity 1059, and is an a-line shaped shift dress with a v-neck, and can be made sleeveless or with longer sleeves.
I knew I couldn't choose a pattern that was super fitted or had too many seams with the georgette, so this fit the bill perfectly.
This was a very simple make, and had I chosen another material (like a cotton lawn), I would have had a very quick make on my hands. I definitely think I can push one of these out in a few hours given a less fussy material.
Apropos of nothing, this shot makes me laugh. Angus wants to be in all my photos now. I love this shot, it's one of my favorites since his recent turn as ootd photo bomber.
This dress was written up at the Fabric Mart blog. The pattern was reviewed at Pattern Review, as well.
I was in Indiana with my bestie, Lynn, in May, and because I can't ever say no to the siren song of a fabric store, we went to Joann's where I spied this beautiful and luscious Nicole Miller (for Joann Fabrics) scuba knit.
I had no plan for it, but I knew I wanted to make it ASAP, and probably in a dress. I have worn it a few times since, including on a recent trip to Wisconsin (to the House on the Rock, which if you know this place, you will know my dress looks muted in comparison, lol).
This is made from McCall's 7122, which is a dress that features raglan sleeves, a slight a-line skirt, and a slight scoopneck.
The back was cut in two separate pieces, and though I prefer to sew up ones cut on the fold, this type of seaming means there is a gentle shaping, which helps shape the dress to the waist and the hips. I really do like the shape of this garment, and have plans to make future dresses from this pattern.
The fabric is crazy, but as you all know, I like the crazy colors and crazy prints. I am not quite to Pucci levels of crazy, but I appreciate the Pucci lovers out there for their unconditional love of the crazy. ;-)
Nicole Miller has quite a few fabrics with Joann's, you can check them out here.
The pattern review is at Pattern Review.
My birthday make! I always like to have a special bday dress, and this year was no exception. I had seen this fabric a few months back in one Julie's Picks (it's a member only fabric subscription service) and I knew I would have it and make it as soon as I could.
In the end, a comfortable, feminine dress was on order, and I really loved wearing out that evening. I went to China Chilcano, which is a Jose Andres restaurant that fuses Peruvian food with Chinese and Japanese food. It was amazing, and I really enjoyed my Pisco. Yum. After we went to see "The Lobster," a kind of terrible (probably in a good way) hipster movie at a super hipster movie theater. BUT! One of the actresses, Lea Seydoux, is a July 1 baby, too, so I was in the virtual company of a fellow 7/1 child. (It's also the bday of Gigi of CA, my actual birthday twin Sufjan Stevens, and of course, CANADA!)
The fabric is a cotton stretch poplin, and features these little triangles in varying shapes and sizes abutting each other. It is very distinctive. The color is a deep brown/orange color and white, and I definitely do not have anything in this color in my closet. Would I have loved this more in a different color? Probably. Am I better off having it in a shade I don't have anything in? Yes, for sure.
Blurry shot, but it shows the adorable cutout back nicely. This is why I made this pattern up, because it has this cutout. It is made from Butterick 6351, and features a straighter skirt with an elastic waistband (back only), a tulip shaped crossover back bodice, and a button closure.
I had to line the skirt in a slippy fabric to ensure it didn't get caught on my underwear, but other than that, I kept to the plan of the pattern very closely. I love this cutout. It is very summer, and since my birthday is very summer, too, I couldn't think of a better choice for my (much older than I think I am) birthday.
Here's a closeup of the fabric. Swoon. So pretty and different.
After sitting for a while at China Chilcano, the dress became a bit crumpled, but it still did well overall. I told my hubby to take a photo of me in front of the FBI building because I understand they are meant to raze one of my favorite buildings in the city (yes, I am one of fifteen fans of Brutalist architecture).
This dress was reviewed at Pattern Review. :-)
I hope you all are having a great summer! I'll check back in with you soon.
P.S. Boden fans, they have upped their sale to "up to 60% off" with an extra 15% off dresses and tops and skirt. That's decent. I just wish they had more in their sale, instead of shuffling some of the older spring and summer stock to "new and now." The link to the sale is below and remember to use the code 3W5C for the extra 15% off those extra items that are eligible.
End of season sale! Extra 15% off Sale Dresses, Tops & Tees, and Mens/Boys Shirts., valid 7/7-7/1
I hope all of you have been well. I have the night off from children and hubby (I am in Georgia with his family and they all want to go and get Krystal and see a movie, I gently declined both), so I am using it to my full advantage!
This is a dress I made in April for our annual auction at our school. This year's theme was "My Big Fat Greek Auction," and it was recommended to wear dressy blue and white. I think I accomplished that. ;-)
The other years I have done the same, made up a dress to go with the theme. Last year's was on Space, so I crafted a galaxy printed dress, and the year prior was Kentucky Derby, and for that I made a floral sheath and paired it with a light blue hat.
The dress is made using Vogue 1499, an Anne Klein pattern, that features a full, pleated skirt, and a fitted bodice with distinct seamed details and cap sleeves.
It was an easy make, but because I lost any stretch in my fabric by placing the border so it would run parallel to the floor, I had to be extra sure I was right about my size on my bottom half. It fits, and it fits well, but if I gain any weight between my waist and hip, I will definitely be unable to wear it in the future. (Must always ensure I get my steps in and swim!!!)
This dress is magic, I can see why Anne Klein has it in her collections. (It is also available in a yellow stripe and grey stripe!) It is very fit and flare, so it truly emphasizes the waist, and if you use a border print fabric, you can make sure to place the print in a way that draws the eye to it.
The fabric was a leftover from Maggy London (her London Times line), and because I like to sleuth for designer fabrics and how they were used originally, I found this pin of the same fabric being used in a similar way.
I had a great time at the party, and the dress did well, as I felt comfortable and a bit carefree.
I wrote a blog post at Fabric Mart and did a review of this at Pattern Review, if you would like to see more on this make.
I made this dress for my June make for Fabric Mart. I was unsure of where I would wear it, but after I was done with it, I decided it was comfortable and lightweight enough to wear to a winesday night a few weeks back. It held up well, and didn't wrinkle at all, even though it was steamy and hot that day.
The dress is made from a silk double georgette, which is (to quote a lol sentence I recently read in a sewing forum) "the devil's favorite fabric." It is a right B**CH to work with, and though I spare you the details on working with it here, you can read all about it over at the Fabric Mart blog (link is below the last photo).
For all of its work, the fabric sure is beautiful, and suited the pattern's silhouette quite well. And because I underlined it in a light blue cotton voile, it was easier to work with (eventually). It also was incredibly breathable and airy and feels fabulous next to my skin.
The pattern is a reprint of a vintage 1969 Simplicity pattern. It is Simplicity 1059, and is an a-line shaped shift dress with a v-neck, and can be made sleeveless or with longer sleeves.
I knew I couldn't choose a pattern that was super fitted or had too many seams with the georgette, so this fit the bill perfectly.
This was a very simple make, and had I chosen another material (like a cotton lawn), I would have had a very quick make on my hands. I definitely think I can push one of these out in a few hours given a less fussy material.
Apropos of nothing, this shot makes me laugh. Angus wants to be in all my photos now. I love this shot, it's one of my favorites since his recent turn as ootd photo bomber.
This dress was written up at the Fabric Mart blog. The pattern was reviewed at Pattern Review, as well.
I was in Indiana with my bestie, Lynn, in May, and because I can't ever say no to the siren song of a fabric store, we went to Joann's where I spied this beautiful and luscious Nicole Miller (for Joann Fabrics) scuba knit.
I had no plan for it, but I knew I wanted to make it ASAP, and probably in a dress. I have worn it a few times since, including on a recent trip to Wisconsin (to the House on the Rock, which if you know this place, you will know my dress looks muted in comparison, lol).
This is made from McCall's 7122, which is a dress that features raglan sleeves, a slight a-line skirt, and a slight scoopneck.
The back was cut in two separate pieces, and though I prefer to sew up ones cut on the fold, this type of seaming means there is a gentle shaping, which helps shape the dress to the waist and the hips. I really do like the shape of this garment, and have plans to make future dresses from this pattern.
The fabric is crazy, but as you all know, I like the crazy colors and crazy prints. I am not quite to Pucci levels of crazy, but I appreciate the Pucci lovers out there for their unconditional love of the crazy. ;-)
Nicole Miller has quite a few fabrics with Joann's, you can check them out here.
The pattern review is at Pattern Review.
My birthday make! I always like to have a special bday dress, and this year was no exception. I had seen this fabric a few months back in one Julie's Picks (it's a member only fabric subscription service) and I knew I would have it and make it as soon as I could.
In the end, a comfortable, feminine dress was on order, and I really loved wearing out that evening. I went to China Chilcano, which is a Jose Andres restaurant that fuses Peruvian food with Chinese and Japanese food. It was amazing, and I really enjoyed my Pisco. Yum. After we went to see "The Lobster," a kind of terrible (probably in a good way) hipster movie at a super hipster movie theater. BUT! One of the actresses, Lea Seydoux, is a July 1 baby, too, so I was in the virtual company of a fellow 7/1 child. (It's also the bday of Gigi of CA, my actual birthday twin Sufjan Stevens, and of course, CANADA!)
The fabric is a cotton stretch poplin, and features these little triangles in varying shapes and sizes abutting each other. It is very distinctive. The color is a deep brown/orange color and white, and I definitely do not have anything in this color in my closet. Would I have loved this more in a different color? Probably. Am I better off having it in a shade I don't have anything in? Yes, for sure.
Blurry shot, but it shows the adorable cutout back nicely. This is why I made this pattern up, because it has this cutout. It is made from Butterick 6351, and features a straighter skirt with an elastic waistband (back only), a tulip shaped crossover back bodice, and a button closure.
I had to line the skirt in a slippy fabric to ensure it didn't get caught on my underwear, but other than that, I kept to the plan of the pattern very closely. I love this cutout. It is very summer, and since my birthday is very summer, too, I couldn't think of a better choice for my (much older than I think I am) birthday.
Here's a closeup of the fabric. Swoon. So pretty and different.
This dress was reviewed at Pattern Review. :-)
I hope you all are having a great summer! I'll check back in with you soon.
P.S. Boden fans, they have upped their sale to "up to 60% off" with an extra 15% off dresses and tops and skirt. That's decent. I just wish they had more in their sale, instead of shuffling some of the older spring and summer stock to "new and now." The link to the sale is below and remember to use the code 3W5C for the extra 15% off those extra items that are eligible.
End of season sale! Extra 15% off Sale Dresses, Tops & Tees, and Mens/Boys Shirts., valid 7/7-7/1
Labels:
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Boden,
Boden Affiliate,
butterick,
children,
Fabric Mart,
J. Crew,
Joanns,
maggy london,
McCall's,
nicole miller,
photos,
scuba knit,
sewing,
simplicity,
Stella and Dot,
Target,
Vogue
Wednesday, January 27, 2016
Made by Me File: The Joy of the Red Coat.
Before I start talking about the joy of making the red coat, I encourage you to visit the post I wrote up at Fabric Mart first, especially if you are a sewer. I am sure it would be fine to replicate, word for word, and photo for photo, that post here, but since this blog is more focused on style, fashion, and garment reviews, I am choosing to leave the bulk of heavy sewing info there.
I am choosing to focus here instead on the journey I took to getting to a place where I made up a fully lined, fully tailored red coat in a month's time. :-)
The back story here is important. I wrote to Fabric Mart and told them I would love to make a coat for my January make. I always enjoy picking out my projects with them, but most of the time the projects are not so involved. Usually I'll make up a dress, or a top and pants, but I tend to not sew up intense projects as they don't really fit in with my hectic school and life schedule. But dang it, I really wanted to challenge myself, so I said to myself I could figure it out and make it happen.
I asked what coating they had in stock and they mentioned that they were getting in a red wool, and if I was interested they would send it my way. After looking at, I leaped, even though I wasn't fully convinced that the red would be "classic" red enough. It definitely didn't look like a yellow-based red (which I usually wear, it suits my warmer complexion), but it didn't look like a blue-red, either, which I know would look horrible on me.
It ended up coming and I fell in love since it was indeed a true red, with no additional tones of blue or yellow. The color is one of the four universal colors all people can wear, regardless of skin tone. Looking at that universal color chart, it's true. I normally can't wear purple, but the one purple on the list is the only shade of purple that doesn't make me look ill.
Deciding on a coat shape and design took me FAR longer than you would think it would. Especially considering that once I had figured it out, I knew immediately what to do. I hemmed and hawed over which design I wanted for a week or so. Did I want a double-breasted trench, did I want a full a-line skirt on the coat, did I want a more modern shape like a cocoon?
It wasn't until I put on my Alabaster Tweed coat from J. Crew that I realized my design was under my nose. Even though I didn't use a shape or coating like the Alabaster Tweed one, I decided I was being silly not looking through my coat closet for inspiration. After all, you all here (especially if you have been reading for years), know how much I love my coats. We may not wear them all the time here, but I adore them all, and wear them every chance I get.
If you have been reading the blog for long enough, you'll know exactly where I went to find my design inspiration, my Sybil coats, and my Bella jackets. Ever since I started sewing, I knew that one day I would want to try and make my own version of these and get them in my wardrobe, but with my personal measurements and aesthetics leading the way, not one of J. Crew's designers making those choices for me.
And I do fully realize I am being derivative here, but at least my version is a bit different, especially in the lower half of the coat (the Sybil is a more straight up-and-down shape).
So I stopped my constant searching through my coat patterns and ebay for the "perfect" coat choice, and decided on the two coat patterns that would come together best to suit me and to realize my vision of the red coat I had in mind.
Vogue 8626 is a pattern I had seen over at Sewing Pattern Review a couple of years ago, and when I saw it, I swooned. It was so pretty, feminine, and yet regal, at the same time. And it was out of print. It took me a few months, but eventually one in my size came up on ebay, and I bought it without hesitation. The only issue I had with the coat was the design of the collar. I don't know if you can tell, but when the collar is buttoned, it makes a weird pointy collar jut in one direction, and the asymmetry is too much for my eye, and I knew it would bug me if I made it up that way.
McCall's 7024 is a pattern I had seen when it came out and bought it as soon as possible. I loved the collar because of how much it reminded me of the Sybil and the Bella. Really the rest of the jacket is fine, but the collar was what I most wanted. Though it is designed with a drawstring, I knew I could probably (and eventually) figure out what to do to omit the drawstring and have it properly stand up.
I had to make a muslin to ensure I was using the correct measurements, and thankfully, they were pretty close to right. I did note that I needed to change up the way the side pleats on the back laid (they favored opening up to the center pleat and it didn't look right on me, so I chose to turn them into box pleats).
I am pleased that Vogue 8626 has cup sizes. I have a very small bustline, 32B if I am lucky, and I have noticed that any pattern that doesn't have specific cup measurements built in will often manifest themselves in a bit of wrinkling above my chest below my collarbone. The same thing happens when I wear a bra that is too big (which is a lot of the time, it is really hard to find a 32B bra that doesn't have underwire). This coat has an A cup bodice, and it is a dream fit up there. Seriously, hands thrown in the air, waving around, kind of fit. I know fuller-bust ladies get a lot of attention for having to make FBAs on their clothes, but for those of us who are wee-er up there than average, have to do the same thing if we want a good fit. People notice it less when things don't fit me properly since it doesn't mean gaping plackets or straining streams, but I get really bothered by those darn wrinkles.
This doesn't mean I am going to take on the challenge of the small bust adjustment every time I sew anything for my top half, but for tailored garments I darn well will. It is worth the effort!
BTW, the belt above is called a Martingale belt. I always just called it a "half-belt at the back," but now that I know what they are called, I am gonna throw that term around like it's hot. LOL.
So the collar, the most important portion of my coat in realizing my vision...turns out the McCall's 7024 is a great dupe for the Sybil coat. It is nearly the same. The Bella is a bit off, as the Bella collar sits on a faux collar stand. The way I made it stand just so was to interface the non-pleated side with fusible hair canvas on the bias (wanted it on the bias so it would be more easily molded when I was steaming it, on the straight grain I would have had a few more struggles to shape it since the straight grain prevents any stretching).
The buttons. Well, it turns out that even though I had chosen a near match for the Sybil coat (they seriously are the same buttons as the ones on my other coats, but red), I wanted to use a flatter, variegated reddish button instead. Now it fully is a coat that is "inspired by" but not a samesy copy.
Now that I have published this post I can actually start wearing the coat out and incorporating it into my ootd postings here and at Instagram. Yes! (I have to wait until the post publishes over there before I publish here.)
I know that some of you might have questions, so if you do, I encourage them. Maybe some of you can even make your own versions of the Sybil/Bella? I would love to see some more of these out there in the world of sewing. :-)
I am choosing to focus here instead on the journey I took to getting to a place where I made up a fully lined, fully tailored red coat in a month's time. :-)
The back story here is important. I wrote to Fabric Mart and told them I would love to make a coat for my January make. I always enjoy picking out my projects with them, but most of the time the projects are not so involved. Usually I'll make up a dress, or a top and pants, but I tend to not sew up intense projects as they don't really fit in with my hectic school and life schedule. But dang it, I really wanted to challenge myself, so I said to myself I could figure it out and make it happen.
I asked what coating they had in stock and they mentioned that they were getting in a red wool, and if I was interested they would send it my way. After looking at, I leaped, even though I wasn't fully convinced that the red would be "classic" red enough. It definitely didn't look like a yellow-based red (which I usually wear, it suits my warmer complexion), but it didn't look like a blue-red, either, which I know would look horrible on me.
It ended up coming and I fell in love since it was indeed a true red, with no additional tones of blue or yellow. The color is one of the four universal colors all people can wear, regardless of skin tone. Looking at that universal color chart, it's true. I normally can't wear purple, but the one purple on the list is the only shade of purple that doesn't make me look ill.
Deciding on a coat shape and design took me FAR longer than you would think it would. Especially considering that once I had figured it out, I knew immediately what to do. I hemmed and hawed over which design I wanted for a week or so. Did I want a double-breasted trench, did I want a full a-line skirt on the coat, did I want a more modern shape like a cocoon?
It wasn't until I put on my Alabaster Tweed coat from J. Crew that I realized my design was under my nose. Even though I didn't use a shape or coating like the Alabaster Tweed one, I decided I was being silly not looking through my coat closet for inspiration. After all, you all here (especially if you have been reading for years), know how much I love my coats. We may not wear them all the time here, but I adore them all, and wear them every chance I get.
If you have been reading the blog for long enough, you'll know exactly where I went to find my design inspiration, my Sybil coats, and my Bella jackets. Ever since I started sewing, I knew that one day I would want to try and make my own version of these and get them in my wardrobe, but with my personal measurements and aesthetics leading the way, not one of J. Crew's designers making those choices for me.
And I do fully realize I am being derivative here, but at least my version is a bit different, especially in the lower half of the coat (the Sybil is a more straight up-and-down shape).
So I stopped my constant searching through my coat patterns and ebay for the "perfect" coat choice, and decided on the two coat patterns that would come together best to suit me and to realize my vision of the red coat I had in mind.
Vogue 8626 is a pattern I had seen over at Sewing Pattern Review a couple of years ago, and when I saw it, I swooned. It was so pretty, feminine, and yet regal, at the same time. And it was out of print. It took me a few months, but eventually one in my size came up on ebay, and I bought it without hesitation. The only issue I had with the coat was the design of the collar. I don't know if you can tell, but when the collar is buttoned, it makes a weird pointy collar jut in one direction, and the asymmetry is too much for my eye, and I knew it would bug me if I made it up that way.
McCall's 7024 is a pattern I had seen when it came out and bought it as soon as possible. I loved the collar because of how much it reminded me of the Sybil and the Bella. Really the rest of the jacket is fine, but the collar was what I most wanted. Though it is designed with a drawstring, I knew I could probably (and eventually) figure out what to do to omit the drawstring and have it properly stand up.
I had to make a muslin to ensure I was using the correct measurements, and thankfully, they were pretty close to right. I did note that I needed to change up the way the side pleats on the back laid (they favored opening up to the center pleat and it didn't look right on me, so I chose to turn them into box pleats).
I am pleased that Vogue 8626 has cup sizes. I have a very small bustline, 32B if I am lucky, and I have noticed that any pattern that doesn't have specific cup measurements built in will often manifest themselves in a bit of wrinkling above my chest below my collarbone. The same thing happens when I wear a bra that is too big (which is a lot of the time, it is really hard to find a 32B bra that doesn't have underwire). This coat has an A cup bodice, and it is a dream fit up there. Seriously, hands thrown in the air, waving around, kind of fit. I know fuller-bust ladies get a lot of attention for having to make FBAs on their clothes, but for those of us who are wee-er up there than average, have to do the same thing if we want a good fit. People notice it less when things don't fit me properly since it doesn't mean gaping plackets or straining streams, but I get really bothered by those darn wrinkles.
This doesn't mean I am going to take on the challenge of the small bust adjustment every time I sew anything for my top half, but for tailored garments I darn well will. It is worth the effort!
BTW, the belt above is called a Martingale belt. I always just called it a "half-belt at the back," but now that I know what they are called, I am gonna throw that term around like it's hot. LOL.
So the collar, the most important portion of my coat in realizing my vision...turns out the McCall's 7024 is a great dupe for the Sybil coat. It is nearly the same. The Bella is a bit off, as the Bella collar sits on a faux collar stand. The way I made it stand just so was to interface the non-pleated side with fusible hair canvas on the bias (wanted it on the bias so it would be more easily molded when I was steaming it, on the straight grain I would have had a few more struggles to shape it since the straight grain prevents any stretching).
The buttons. Well, it turns out that even though I had chosen a near match for the Sybil coat (they seriously are the same buttons as the ones on my other coats, but red), I wanted to use a flatter, variegated reddish button instead. Now it fully is a coat that is "inspired by" but not a samesy copy.
Now that I have published this post I can actually start wearing the coat out and incorporating it into my ootd postings here and at Instagram. Yes! (I have to wait until the post publishes over there before I publish here.)
I know that some of you might have questions, so if you do, I encourage them. Maybe some of you can even make your own versions of the Sybil/Bella? I would love to see some more of these out there in the world of sewing. :-)
Monday, December 28, 2015
OOTDs: Festive Sparkle. And Some Plaid!
Hey, all! I finally finished some of the recent stuff I needed to get done, including a sewing project using stretch velvet, so I can get back to posting. I am trying here! Maybe one day I can get back to the more regular posting I did prior to 2015. We'll see. :-)
The velvet dress was sewn up for the Fabric Mart blog, and it is very timely for the festive season, so if you are a sewer, or like velvet, definitely check it out. I feel a bit like a female Oscar statue wearing it. (In other words, I love it!)
Onto some festive sparkle!
Where: Christmas Dinner.
Ease of Wear: (4.5 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) The salt content alone would have filled an ocean (based on how fat my fingers and toes felt at the end of dinner), but dang if this outfit wasn't super easy to wear all night. I love J. Crew for making this plaid skirt with an elastic waistband. Now I will never tuck anything into it, but that bothers me not one bit.
Outfit Details: Sweater, Boden; Skirt, J. Crew; Shoes, J. Crew; Necklace, Madewell (they still make it, find it here).
Anecdote of the Day: Does salt make any of you all swell up the way it does me? Maybe it's because I try really hard not to eat too many items that have it in overabundance, but when I do eat it in copious amounts, I feel it. I hate all those cooking show comments that say "there's not enough salt, wah wah wah." I'm always like, "dude, really, do you want to be pickled from the inside out?"
Where: Meetings and writing lesson plans. Boring.
Ease of Wear: (5 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) Again, elastic waistbands to the rescue. These Boden pants are in ridiculous deep discount, and because normally Boden pants are just crap on me, I figured these pair would be sent back. But because they run large, and they have room for a booty, I find them ridiculously comfortable one size down from my normal Boden size. Yes.
Outfit Details: Sweater, Boden; Pants, Boden (Jessica Jogger here
, out of stock right now, but pops back); Shoes, Boden; Necklace, Boden; Sunglasses, Ray-Ban (here
, they are the Meteor style).
Anecdote of the Day: I take so long to write lesson plans. Secret--I never had to write lesson plans formally before this. I just had them written down so that the administrators could see them if they walked in the room. I did finally write them down for a long-term sub when I was set to have CW, but that was during a frenzy of nesting, so I hardly remember it being a pain (and I did the full year for him, too, lol). I think I may write too much, but my assistant principal seems to like it.
Where: Picking up the turkey from Whole Foods.
Ease of Wear: (4.75 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) The Oona skirt features an elastic waistband. Really, I should just retitle this post "Elastic Festive." That sounds like a song. Hmmm.
Outfit Details: Top, J. Crew; Cardigan, Ann Taylor; Skirt, Boden (Oona Skirt here
, but this color has long since sold out, but the Tamara Top features the same fabric
); Shoes, J. Crew.
Anecdote of the Day: The turkey has to be ordered in advance, it costs way too much money, but man, it's a good bird. I went in and heard people crowing that Whole Foods had sold out of the turkeys, so I felt good that I had ordered in advance, regardless of how silly my family thinks I am for doing so. :-)
Where: I don't remember! Maybe Winesday since it was a Wednesday? I know it was raining, lol.
Ease of Wear: (4.75 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) Turner pants feature an elastic waistband. And the Zoe coat is warm! Hey!
Outfit Details: Top, J. Crew (here in stripe); Pants, J. Crew (no longer available in poly, but they have them in wool here); Coat, Boden (Zoe Coat here
, review here); Scarf, J. Crew; Shoes, J. Crew.
Anecdote of the Day: Got nothing. It was raining. I was warm. :-)
The velvet dress was sewn up for the Fabric Mart blog, and it is very timely for the festive season, so if you are a sewer, or like velvet, definitely check it out. I feel a bit like a female Oscar statue wearing it. (In other words, I love it!)
Onto some festive sparkle!
Day: Thursday, December 25, 2015.
Where: Christmas Dinner.
Outfit Details: Sweater, Boden; Skirt, J. Crew; Shoes, J. Crew; Necklace, Madewell (they still make it, find it here).
Anecdote of the Day: Does salt make any of you all swell up the way it does me? Maybe it's because I try really hard not to eat too many items that have it in overabundance, but when I do eat it in copious amounts, I feel it. I hate all those cooking show comments that say "there's not enough salt, wah wah wah." I'm always like, "dude, really, do you want to be pickled from the inside out?"
Day: Monday, December 7, 2015.
Where: Meetings and writing lesson plans. Boring.
Outfit Details: Sweater, Boden; Pants, Boden (Jessica Jogger here
Anecdote of the Day: I take so long to write lesson plans. Secret--I never had to write lesson plans formally before this. I just had them written down so that the administrators could see them if they walked in the room. I did finally write them down for a long-term sub when I was set to have CW, but that was during a frenzy of nesting, so I hardly remember it being a pain (and I did the full year for him, too, lol). I think I may write too much, but my assistant principal seems to like it.
Day: Wednesday, December 23, 2015.
Where: Picking up the turkey from Whole Foods.
Outfit Details: Top, J. Crew; Cardigan, Ann Taylor; Skirt, Boden (Oona Skirt here
Anecdote of the Day: The turkey has to be ordered in advance, it costs way too much money, but man, it's a good bird. I went in and heard people crowing that Whole Foods had sold out of the turkeys, so I felt good that I had ordered in advance, regardless of how silly my family thinks I am for doing so. :-)
Day: Wednesday, December 2, 2015.
Where: I don't remember! Maybe Winesday since it was a Wednesday? I know it was raining, lol.
Outfit Details: Top, J. Crew (here in stripe); Pants, J. Crew (no longer available in poly, but they have them in wool here); Coat, Boden (Zoe Coat here
Anecdote of the Day: Got nothing. It was raining. I was warm. :-)
Have a great day, everyone. Glad I have some time to get some ootds here. Now off to go visit some of my favorite blogs! :-)
Tuesday, April 28, 2015
OOTDs: Three Times a Turner Sub!
Day: Friday, April 24, 2015.
Where: Subbing Art.
Ease of Wear: (4 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) Although I had crafted this top to fit me exactly (it was my last entry in the Fabric Mart Fashion Challenge last year), I have gained about three pounds since then, so it was a touch tight through the waistband, but holla, linen is always stretches out by the end of the day, so by noon, I felt fine. :-) The pants are awesomely comfortable, which is why I keep praising them to the hills. I don't think I am the only person who loves the Turner Pant this much, but I *may* just be the most vocal.
Outfit Details: Top, made using Simplicity 1590; Pants, available still from J. Crew; Shoes, J. Crew.
Anecdote of the Day: The reason for wearing the top should be obvious, but in case it's not, I wore my hand-painted top so I could use it as a vehicle for discussing the process of creating art. It actually ended up helping one kid who was stressed out about something not being perfect at the beginning of his hippo art (yep, that's my signed version above, lol). I told him my top was nowhere near perfect when I started and honestly was far from perfect still, but overall it was a good piece of art. I think it worked. He seemed satisfied by his art from there forward. :-)
Instagram Shot.
Day: Wednesday, April 22, 2015.
Where: Subbing 4th Grade.
Ease of Wear: (4.5 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) I basically felt like I was wearing pajamas the whole day. The navy version of the Turner pants (haha, yes, I wore them twice in a week with a wash in between) is a touch tighter than the other colors, but still stupidly comfortable. The merino wool metallic striped sweater appears that it would be scratchy because of the metallic threads, but the inside is nice and soft. Very lovely. I also found the size extra small that I bought to fit well on my frame, but keep in mind I have a very short torso for my height. For some of you this may be too short. Hogl is a brand out of Germany, and I had purchased these shoes way back in 2004, when we went there on a spring break. They are doing well considering their age. I love this brand and wish they were easier to find in the States.
Outfit Details: Sweater, a few left at J. Crew; Necklace, J. Crew; Pants, available at J. Crew; Shoes, Hogl.
Anecdote of the Day: I was supposed to be in the office but at the last minute switched to fourth grade. I didn't know what the day was going to hold, but apparently there was a big "station" day at the school focused on STEM (Science, Technology, Engineering, Mathematics) with an emphasis on CSI kind of work, so I loved it, since as an archaeologist we had to use many of the same techniques that CSI does in its work. I looked a the clock one minute and it was 1:15, and then LITERALLY five seconds later I looked at it and it was 3:00. That was easily the best day I have had teaching, ever. It was fun.
Instagram Shot.
Day: Friday, April 17, 2015.
Where: Subbing Computer.
Ease of Wear: (4.5 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) I could repeat what I wrote in the above entry. Gracious. I am probably boring you now. But these Turner pants are the black version. Woo. Right? Exciting stuff here, I tell ya.
Outfit Details: Top, Target; Necklace, Target; Pants, available at J. Crew; Shoes, J. Crew Factory.
Anecdote of the Day: Rex was out of school for a month when he broke his leg and was wheelchair bound. Apparently he was missed. The note above tells what one student felt made them lucky, and one of their "I am lucky" statements was that Rex was back. I nearly started crying, so sweet. :-)
Okay, that's it. Want to point out that I am wearing no Boden in these outfits. Yes, it is possible. Haha.
You all have a great night.
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