You can pretty much guarantee that if I am silent here AND on Instagram, I probably have been delving deep in sewing, and that was for sure the case this past week and weekend. (I haven't even used Instagram from Saturday forward, and I blame the oversaturation of sewing for that, as Instagram couldn't be any easier to use.)
Anyhow, there is a Vintage Pattern contest running over at Pattern Review, and though I really (honestly!) don't care about winning, I like to have an excuse to make something, and this contest seemed the perfect kick in the behind to get my sewing mojo on and get a dress done in time for school to start (and with the perfect retro flair, the way I really like it).
I have in my stash of patterns this beautiful Vogue Couturier pattern from Valentino from 1970. I have a real sickness for these older patterns. There's also the Vogue Paris Original patterns that are lovely, too (I made this LaRoche pattern a few years back). If I see that one or a few are for sale and they will suit me and fit me, I'll put in a bid on ebay or purchase them outright from Ebay.
There is a lot of history on Vogue designer patterns, and this very recent (as in yesterday) article from the New York Times explores it a bit. They even mention Valentino in the article.
I knew most of what was in the article, but it always bears repeating, the garment on the cover of these patterns ARE the garment as designed and shown by the original designer, and the pattern makers from Vogue use that as their base for their patterns. So I was basically recreating the original garment that Valentino crafted even before I was born. This is still true today, and the Anne Klein dress that I copied was from an original from the Anne Klein line.
Obviously I really dig the style and silhouette of the dress and if a current designer or clothing company made a dress like this, I would want to buy it. The pockets are integrated into the front dress design, and those belt carriers are part of the dress design, and are NOT added as a waistband feature from a waistband pattern piece. Instead they are part of the dress front and pocket and dart pattern piece. (All in one. When you see the instructions below, you will agree with my hesitation in cutting my dress fabric in the convoluted design they wanted me to...of course it worked out, clearly, but I couldn't believe that design would lead to what you see above.)
The dress, as made up, is very pretty, but practical. I made it from a double knit, so it is very comfortable and stretchy, but the pockets and belt add a level "I didn't know I needed these features until I had them here." I now want all my dresses to have these details. Especially the pockets, which are not your typical inseam pockets, hiding from the world. These are integrated on the front and help showcase the unique seaming.
Nearly all my belts fit in these carriers, and the fancier, jeweled belts helped create a more formal look, while this patent leather one suited a more casual outing, like teaching school, or going to church.
The mockneck is very comfortable, and though it could read frumpy, the sleeveless and fitted bodice help keep it from looking too dated.
Though I have few plans to wear the cloche with the dress, I did like the look, and would possibly pair the two for the right occasion. :-)
The back was far less complicated than the front, but I will say the dart that extended from the back yoke to the hip was one of the longest I have ever encountered. It also integrated the belt carriers into it, so there was a bit of finagling there, too. There was also an additional back carrier that had to be created by making a welt insertion for the facing piece, and that terrified me that I would place the welt in the wrong place and ruin all my work.
Because my hips are larger than the pattern called for, I had to bring my seam allowances from waist down from 5/8" to 1/2". If this had not been an a-line skirt, I would have likely had to add allowances to the pattern itself as no straight skirt from this era would ever fit me in a size 12 (the hips on a size 12 are a 34, I am that plus 5!).
The mockneck called for hook/eye closures that are hidden, but I wanted to use a loop/button closure. I wish the loop was a bit tighter, but I don't think it totally ruins the look of the dress, either.
I love this fabric. It was exactly right for the job. The weight of the double knit means I can wear it in non-summer months, but it also meant I didn't have to try a designer pattern from 1970 in a non-stretch woven. Plus, it even looks a bit like the original Valentino dress fabric (though I know that was likely a brocade of some sort).
Here's a good closeup of the fabric, the carriers, and the pocket detail. So glad this all worked out. :-)
Yeah, those are the (dang) clear directions. But look at the illustration for #2, that was the shape I had to cut. I mean, it makes sense how that becomes what you see on me, but it does require a bit of a leap of faith that it will all work out.
If you would like to see my pattern review, it is here.
In other news...before I even started my pretty Valentino dress, I had to complete this ridiculous Piranha costume. I used Simplicity 2853 for the pattern, and yeah, I recognize it doesn't look a thing like the pattern shows. That was because I took a lot of liberties with the design. It all worked out and the swim team LOVED it (or was scared, rightly so). What a monstrosity. LOL. :-)
Okay, that's all for now. I hope all of you are doing well, and I'll be back soon.
Showing posts with label Vogue. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vogue. Show all posts
Wednesday, August 3, 2016
Thursday, July 7, 2016
Made by Me File/OOTDs: Four Recent Dresses!
Hey, all! This will be a photo-intensive post, but to ameliorate how much reading you'll need to do here, I will save the nitty-gritty details about construction and pattern/fabric reviewing to the posts on that I have made at either PatternReview.com or the Fabric Mart blog. Those links are scattered about. :-)
I hope all of you have been well. I have the night off from children and hubby (I am in Georgia with his family and they all want to go and get Krystal and see a movie, I gently declined both), so I am using it to my full advantage!
This is a dress I made in April for our annual auction at our school. This year's theme was "My Big Fat Greek Auction," and it was recommended to wear dressy blue and white. I think I accomplished that. ;-)
The other years I have done the same, made up a dress to go with the theme. Last year's was on Space, so I crafted a galaxy printed dress, and the year prior was Kentucky Derby, and for that I made a floral sheath and paired it with a light blue hat.
The dress is made using Vogue 1499, an Anne Klein pattern, that features a full, pleated skirt, and a fitted bodice with distinct seamed details and cap sleeves.
It was an easy make, but because I lost any stretch in my fabric by placing the border so it would run parallel to the floor, I had to be extra sure I was right about my size on my bottom half. It fits, and it fits well, but if I gain any weight between my waist and hip, I will definitely be unable to wear it in the future. (Must always ensure I get my steps in and swim!!!)
This dress is magic, I can see why Anne Klein has it in her collections. (It is also available in a yellow stripe and grey stripe!) It is very fit and flare, so it truly emphasizes the waist, and if you use a border print fabric, you can make sure to place the print in a way that draws the eye to it.
The fabric was a leftover from Maggy London (her London Times line), and because I like to sleuth for designer fabrics and how they were used originally, I found this pin of the same fabric being used in a similar way.
I had a great time at the party, and the dress did well, as I felt comfortable and a bit carefree.
I wrote a blog post at Fabric Mart and did a review of this at Pattern Review, if you would like to see more on this make.
I made this dress for my June make for Fabric Mart. I was unsure of where I would wear it, but after I was done with it, I decided it was comfortable and lightweight enough to wear to a winesday night a few weeks back. It held up well, and didn't wrinkle at all, even though it was steamy and hot that day.
The dress is made from a silk double georgette, which is (to quote a lol sentence I recently read in a sewing forum) "the devil's favorite fabric." It is a right B**CH to work with, and though I spare you the details on working with it here, you can read all about it over at the Fabric Mart blog (link is below the last photo).
For all of its work, the fabric sure is beautiful, and suited the pattern's silhouette quite well. And because I underlined it in a light blue cotton voile, it was easier to work with (eventually). It also was incredibly breathable and airy and feels fabulous next to my skin.
The pattern is a reprint of a vintage 1969 Simplicity pattern. It is Simplicity 1059, and is an a-line shaped shift dress with a v-neck, and can be made sleeveless or with longer sleeves.
I knew I couldn't choose a pattern that was super fitted or had too many seams with the georgette, so this fit the bill perfectly.
This was a very simple make, and had I chosen another material (like a cotton lawn), I would have had a very quick make on my hands. I definitely think I can push one of these out in a few hours given a less fussy material.
Apropos of nothing, this shot makes me laugh. Angus wants to be in all my photos now. I love this shot, it's one of my favorites since his recent turn as ootd photo bomber.
This dress was written up at the Fabric Mart blog. The pattern was reviewed at Pattern Review, as well.
I was in Indiana with my bestie, Lynn, in May, and because I can't ever say no to the siren song of a fabric store, we went to Joann's where I spied this beautiful and luscious Nicole Miller (for Joann Fabrics) scuba knit.
I had no plan for it, but I knew I wanted to make it ASAP, and probably in a dress. I have worn it a few times since, including on a recent trip to Wisconsin (to the House on the Rock, which if you know this place, you will know my dress looks muted in comparison, lol).
This is made from McCall's 7122, which is a dress that features raglan sleeves, a slight a-line skirt, and a slight scoopneck.
The back was cut in two separate pieces, and though I prefer to sew up ones cut on the fold, this type of seaming means there is a gentle shaping, which helps shape the dress to the waist and the hips. I really do like the shape of this garment, and have plans to make future dresses from this pattern.
The fabric is crazy, but as you all know, I like the crazy colors and crazy prints. I am not quite to Pucci levels of crazy, but I appreciate the Pucci lovers out there for their unconditional love of the crazy. ;-)
Nicole Miller has quite a few fabrics with Joann's, you can check them out here.
The pattern review is at Pattern Review.
My birthday make! I always like to have a special bday dress, and this year was no exception. I had seen this fabric a few months back in one Julie's Picks (it's a member only fabric subscription service) and I knew I would have it and make it as soon as I could.
In the end, a comfortable, feminine dress was on order, and I really loved wearing out that evening. I went to China Chilcano, which is a Jose Andres restaurant that fuses Peruvian food with Chinese and Japanese food. It was amazing, and I really enjoyed my Pisco. Yum. After we went to see "The Lobster," a kind of terrible (probably in a good way) hipster movie at a super hipster movie theater. BUT! One of the actresses, Lea Seydoux, is a July 1 baby, too, so I was in the virtual company of a fellow 7/1 child. (It's also the bday of Gigi of CA, my actual birthday twin Sufjan Stevens, and of course, CANADA!)
The fabric is a cotton stretch poplin, and features these little triangles in varying shapes and sizes abutting each other. It is very distinctive. The color is a deep brown/orange color and white, and I definitely do not have anything in this color in my closet. Would I have loved this more in a different color? Probably. Am I better off having it in a shade I don't have anything in? Yes, for sure.
Blurry shot, but it shows the adorable cutout back nicely. This is why I made this pattern up, because it has this cutout. It is made from Butterick 6351, and features a straighter skirt with an elastic waistband (back only), a tulip shaped crossover back bodice, and a button closure.
I had to line the skirt in a slippy fabric to ensure it didn't get caught on my underwear, but other than that, I kept to the plan of the pattern very closely. I love this cutout. It is very summer, and since my birthday is very summer, too, I couldn't think of a better choice for my (much older than I think I am) birthday.
Here's a closeup of the fabric. Swoon. So pretty and different.
After sitting for a while at China Chilcano, the dress became a bit crumpled, but it still did well overall. I told my hubby to take a photo of me in front of the FBI building because I understand they are meant to raze one of my favorite buildings in the city (yes, I am one of fifteen fans of Brutalist architecture).
This dress was reviewed at Pattern Review. :-)
I hope you all are having a great summer! I'll check back in with you soon.
P.S. Boden fans, they have upped their sale to "up to 60% off" with an extra 15% off dresses and tops and skirt. That's decent. I just wish they had more in their sale, instead of shuffling some of the older spring and summer stock to "new and now." The link to the sale is below and remember to use the code 3W5C for the extra 15% off those extra items that are eligible.
End of season sale! Extra 15% off Sale Dresses, Tops & Tees, and Mens/Boys Shirts., valid 7/7-7/1
I hope all of you have been well. I have the night off from children and hubby (I am in Georgia with his family and they all want to go and get Krystal and see a movie, I gently declined both), so I am using it to my full advantage!
This is a dress I made in April for our annual auction at our school. This year's theme was "My Big Fat Greek Auction," and it was recommended to wear dressy blue and white. I think I accomplished that. ;-)
The other years I have done the same, made up a dress to go with the theme. Last year's was on Space, so I crafted a galaxy printed dress, and the year prior was Kentucky Derby, and for that I made a floral sheath and paired it with a light blue hat.
The dress is made using Vogue 1499, an Anne Klein pattern, that features a full, pleated skirt, and a fitted bodice with distinct seamed details and cap sleeves.
It was an easy make, but because I lost any stretch in my fabric by placing the border so it would run parallel to the floor, I had to be extra sure I was right about my size on my bottom half. It fits, and it fits well, but if I gain any weight between my waist and hip, I will definitely be unable to wear it in the future. (Must always ensure I get my steps in and swim!!!)
This dress is magic, I can see why Anne Klein has it in her collections. (It is also available in a yellow stripe and grey stripe!) It is very fit and flare, so it truly emphasizes the waist, and if you use a border print fabric, you can make sure to place the print in a way that draws the eye to it.
The fabric was a leftover from Maggy London (her London Times line), and because I like to sleuth for designer fabrics and how they were used originally, I found this pin of the same fabric being used in a similar way.
I had a great time at the party, and the dress did well, as I felt comfortable and a bit carefree.
I wrote a blog post at Fabric Mart and did a review of this at Pattern Review, if you would like to see more on this make.
I made this dress for my June make for Fabric Mart. I was unsure of where I would wear it, but after I was done with it, I decided it was comfortable and lightweight enough to wear to a winesday night a few weeks back. It held up well, and didn't wrinkle at all, even though it was steamy and hot that day.
The dress is made from a silk double georgette, which is (to quote a lol sentence I recently read in a sewing forum) "the devil's favorite fabric." It is a right B**CH to work with, and though I spare you the details on working with it here, you can read all about it over at the Fabric Mart blog (link is below the last photo).
For all of its work, the fabric sure is beautiful, and suited the pattern's silhouette quite well. And because I underlined it in a light blue cotton voile, it was easier to work with (eventually). It also was incredibly breathable and airy and feels fabulous next to my skin.
The pattern is a reprint of a vintage 1969 Simplicity pattern. It is Simplicity 1059, and is an a-line shaped shift dress with a v-neck, and can be made sleeveless or with longer sleeves.
I knew I couldn't choose a pattern that was super fitted or had too many seams with the georgette, so this fit the bill perfectly.
This was a very simple make, and had I chosen another material (like a cotton lawn), I would have had a very quick make on my hands. I definitely think I can push one of these out in a few hours given a less fussy material.
Apropos of nothing, this shot makes me laugh. Angus wants to be in all my photos now. I love this shot, it's one of my favorites since his recent turn as ootd photo bomber.
This dress was written up at the Fabric Mart blog. The pattern was reviewed at Pattern Review, as well.
I was in Indiana with my bestie, Lynn, in May, and because I can't ever say no to the siren song of a fabric store, we went to Joann's where I spied this beautiful and luscious Nicole Miller (for Joann Fabrics) scuba knit.
I had no plan for it, but I knew I wanted to make it ASAP, and probably in a dress. I have worn it a few times since, including on a recent trip to Wisconsin (to the House on the Rock, which if you know this place, you will know my dress looks muted in comparison, lol).
This is made from McCall's 7122, which is a dress that features raglan sleeves, a slight a-line skirt, and a slight scoopneck.
The back was cut in two separate pieces, and though I prefer to sew up ones cut on the fold, this type of seaming means there is a gentle shaping, which helps shape the dress to the waist and the hips. I really do like the shape of this garment, and have plans to make future dresses from this pattern.
The fabric is crazy, but as you all know, I like the crazy colors and crazy prints. I am not quite to Pucci levels of crazy, but I appreciate the Pucci lovers out there for their unconditional love of the crazy. ;-)
Nicole Miller has quite a few fabrics with Joann's, you can check them out here.
The pattern review is at Pattern Review.
My birthday make! I always like to have a special bday dress, and this year was no exception. I had seen this fabric a few months back in one Julie's Picks (it's a member only fabric subscription service) and I knew I would have it and make it as soon as I could.
In the end, a comfortable, feminine dress was on order, and I really loved wearing out that evening. I went to China Chilcano, which is a Jose Andres restaurant that fuses Peruvian food with Chinese and Japanese food. It was amazing, and I really enjoyed my Pisco. Yum. After we went to see "The Lobster," a kind of terrible (probably in a good way) hipster movie at a super hipster movie theater. BUT! One of the actresses, Lea Seydoux, is a July 1 baby, too, so I was in the virtual company of a fellow 7/1 child. (It's also the bday of Gigi of CA, my actual birthday twin Sufjan Stevens, and of course, CANADA!)
The fabric is a cotton stretch poplin, and features these little triangles in varying shapes and sizes abutting each other. It is very distinctive. The color is a deep brown/orange color and white, and I definitely do not have anything in this color in my closet. Would I have loved this more in a different color? Probably. Am I better off having it in a shade I don't have anything in? Yes, for sure.
Blurry shot, but it shows the adorable cutout back nicely. This is why I made this pattern up, because it has this cutout. It is made from Butterick 6351, and features a straighter skirt with an elastic waistband (back only), a tulip shaped crossover back bodice, and a button closure.
I had to line the skirt in a slippy fabric to ensure it didn't get caught on my underwear, but other than that, I kept to the plan of the pattern very closely. I love this cutout. It is very summer, and since my birthday is very summer, too, I couldn't think of a better choice for my (much older than I think I am) birthday.
Here's a closeup of the fabric. Swoon. So pretty and different.
This dress was reviewed at Pattern Review. :-)
I hope you all are having a great summer! I'll check back in with you soon.
P.S. Boden fans, they have upped their sale to "up to 60% off" with an extra 15% off dresses and tops and skirt. That's decent. I just wish they had more in their sale, instead of shuffling some of the older spring and summer stock to "new and now." The link to the sale is below and remember to use the code 3W5C for the extra 15% off those extra items that are eligible.
End of season sale! Extra 15% off Sale Dresses, Tops & Tees, and Mens/Boys Shirts., valid 7/7-7/1
Labels:
anne klein,
Boden,
Boden Affiliate,
butterick,
children,
Fabric Mart,
J. Crew,
Joanns,
maggy london,
McCall's,
nicole miller,
photos,
scuba knit,
sewing,
simplicity,
Stella and Dot,
Target,
Vogue
Wednesday, January 27, 2016
Made by Me File: The Joy of the Red Coat.
Before I start talking about the joy of making the red coat, I encourage you to visit the post I wrote up at Fabric Mart first, especially if you are a sewer. I am sure it would be fine to replicate, word for word, and photo for photo, that post here, but since this blog is more focused on style, fashion, and garment reviews, I am choosing to leave the bulk of heavy sewing info there.
I am choosing to focus here instead on the journey I took to getting to a place where I made up a fully lined, fully tailored red coat in a month's time. :-)
The back story here is important. I wrote to Fabric Mart and told them I would love to make a coat for my January make. I always enjoy picking out my projects with them, but most of the time the projects are not so involved. Usually I'll make up a dress, or a top and pants, but I tend to not sew up intense projects as they don't really fit in with my hectic school and life schedule. But dang it, I really wanted to challenge myself, so I said to myself I could figure it out and make it happen.
I asked what coating they had in stock and they mentioned that they were getting in a red wool, and if I was interested they would send it my way. After looking at, I leaped, even though I wasn't fully convinced that the red would be "classic" red enough. It definitely didn't look like a yellow-based red (which I usually wear, it suits my warmer complexion), but it didn't look like a blue-red, either, which I know would look horrible on me.
It ended up coming and I fell in love since it was indeed a true red, with no additional tones of blue or yellow. The color is one of the four universal colors all people can wear, regardless of skin tone. Looking at that universal color chart, it's true. I normally can't wear purple, but the one purple on the list is the only shade of purple that doesn't make me look ill.
Deciding on a coat shape and design took me FAR longer than you would think it would. Especially considering that once I had figured it out, I knew immediately what to do. I hemmed and hawed over which design I wanted for a week or so. Did I want a double-breasted trench, did I want a full a-line skirt on the coat, did I want a more modern shape like a cocoon?
It wasn't until I put on my Alabaster Tweed coat from J. Crew that I realized my design was under my nose. Even though I didn't use a shape or coating like the Alabaster Tweed one, I decided I was being silly not looking through my coat closet for inspiration. After all, you all here (especially if you have been reading for years), know how much I love my coats. We may not wear them all the time here, but I adore them all, and wear them every chance I get.
If you have been reading the blog for long enough, you'll know exactly where I went to find my design inspiration, my Sybil coats, and my Bella jackets. Ever since I started sewing, I knew that one day I would want to try and make my own version of these and get them in my wardrobe, but with my personal measurements and aesthetics leading the way, not one of J. Crew's designers making those choices for me.
And I do fully realize I am being derivative here, but at least my version is a bit different, especially in the lower half of the coat (the Sybil is a more straight up-and-down shape).
So I stopped my constant searching through my coat patterns and ebay for the "perfect" coat choice, and decided on the two coat patterns that would come together best to suit me and to realize my vision of the red coat I had in mind.
Vogue 8626 is a pattern I had seen over at Sewing Pattern Review a couple of years ago, and when I saw it, I swooned. It was so pretty, feminine, and yet regal, at the same time. And it was out of print. It took me a few months, but eventually one in my size came up on ebay, and I bought it without hesitation. The only issue I had with the coat was the design of the collar. I don't know if you can tell, but when the collar is buttoned, it makes a weird pointy collar jut in one direction, and the asymmetry is too much for my eye, and I knew it would bug me if I made it up that way.
McCall's 7024 is a pattern I had seen when it came out and bought it as soon as possible. I loved the collar because of how much it reminded me of the Sybil and the Bella. Really the rest of the jacket is fine, but the collar was what I most wanted. Though it is designed with a drawstring, I knew I could probably (and eventually) figure out what to do to omit the drawstring and have it properly stand up.
I had to make a muslin to ensure I was using the correct measurements, and thankfully, they were pretty close to right. I did note that I needed to change up the way the side pleats on the back laid (they favored opening up to the center pleat and it didn't look right on me, so I chose to turn them into box pleats).
I am pleased that Vogue 8626 has cup sizes. I have a very small bustline, 32B if I am lucky, and I have noticed that any pattern that doesn't have specific cup measurements built in will often manifest themselves in a bit of wrinkling above my chest below my collarbone. The same thing happens when I wear a bra that is too big (which is a lot of the time, it is really hard to find a 32B bra that doesn't have underwire). This coat has an A cup bodice, and it is a dream fit up there. Seriously, hands thrown in the air, waving around, kind of fit. I know fuller-bust ladies get a lot of attention for having to make FBAs on their clothes, but for those of us who are wee-er up there than average, have to do the same thing if we want a good fit. People notice it less when things don't fit me properly since it doesn't mean gaping plackets or straining streams, but I get really bothered by those darn wrinkles.
This doesn't mean I am going to take on the challenge of the small bust adjustment every time I sew anything for my top half, but for tailored garments I darn well will. It is worth the effort!
BTW, the belt above is called a Martingale belt. I always just called it a "half-belt at the back," but now that I know what they are called, I am gonna throw that term around like it's hot. LOL.
So the collar, the most important portion of my coat in realizing my vision...turns out the McCall's 7024 is a great dupe for the Sybil coat. It is nearly the same. The Bella is a bit off, as the Bella collar sits on a faux collar stand. The way I made it stand just so was to interface the non-pleated side with fusible hair canvas on the bias (wanted it on the bias so it would be more easily molded when I was steaming it, on the straight grain I would have had a few more struggles to shape it since the straight grain prevents any stretching).
The buttons. Well, it turns out that even though I had chosen a near match for the Sybil coat (they seriously are the same buttons as the ones on my other coats, but red), I wanted to use a flatter, variegated reddish button instead. Now it fully is a coat that is "inspired by" but not a samesy copy.
Now that I have published this post I can actually start wearing the coat out and incorporating it into my ootd postings here and at Instagram. Yes! (I have to wait until the post publishes over there before I publish here.)
I know that some of you might have questions, so if you do, I encourage them. Maybe some of you can even make your own versions of the Sybil/Bella? I would love to see some more of these out there in the world of sewing. :-)
I am choosing to focus here instead on the journey I took to getting to a place where I made up a fully lined, fully tailored red coat in a month's time. :-)
The back story here is important. I wrote to Fabric Mart and told them I would love to make a coat for my January make. I always enjoy picking out my projects with them, but most of the time the projects are not so involved. Usually I'll make up a dress, or a top and pants, but I tend to not sew up intense projects as they don't really fit in with my hectic school and life schedule. But dang it, I really wanted to challenge myself, so I said to myself I could figure it out and make it happen.
I asked what coating they had in stock and they mentioned that they were getting in a red wool, and if I was interested they would send it my way. After looking at, I leaped, even though I wasn't fully convinced that the red would be "classic" red enough. It definitely didn't look like a yellow-based red (which I usually wear, it suits my warmer complexion), but it didn't look like a blue-red, either, which I know would look horrible on me.
It ended up coming and I fell in love since it was indeed a true red, with no additional tones of blue or yellow. The color is one of the four universal colors all people can wear, regardless of skin tone. Looking at that universal color chart, it's true. I normally can't wear purple, but the one purple on the list is the only shade of purple that doesn't make me look ill.
Deciding on a coat shape and design took me FAR longer than you would think it would. Especially considering that once I had figured it out, I knew immediately what to do. I hemmed and hawed over which design I wanted for a week or so. Did I want a double-breasted trench, did I want a full a-line skirt on the coat, did I want a more modern shape like a cocoon?
It wasn't until I put on my Alabaster Tweed coat from J. Crew that I realized my design was under my nose. Even though I didn't use a shape or coating like the Alabaster Tweed one, I decided I was being silly not looking through my coat closet for inspiration. After all, you all here (especially if you have been reading for years), know how much I love my coats. We may not wear them all the time here, but I adore them all, and wear them every chance I get.
If you have been reading the blog for long enough, you'll know exactly where I went to find my design inspiration, my Sybil coats, and my Bella jackets. Ever since I started sewing, I knew that one day I would want to try and make my own version of these and get them in my wardrobe, but with my personal measurements and aesthetics leading the way, not one of J. Crew's designers making those choices for me.
And I do fully realize I am being derivative here, but at least my version is a bit different, especially in the lower half of the coat (the Sybil is a more straight up-and-down shape).
So I stopped my constant searching through my coat patterns and ebay for the "perfect" coat choice, and decided on the two coat patterns that would come together best to suit me and to realize my vision of the red coat I had in mind.
Vogue 8626 is a pattern I had seen over at Sewing Pattern Review a couple of years ago, and when I saw it, I swooned. It was so pretty, feminine, and yet regal, at the same time. And it was out of print. It took me a few months, but eventually one in my size came up on ebay, and I bought it without hesitation. The only issue I had with the coat was the design of the collar. I don't know if you can tell, but when the collar is buttoned, it makes a weird pointy collar jut in one direction, and the asymmetry is too much for my eye, and I knew it would bug me if I made it up that way.
McCall's 7024 is a pattern I had seen when it came out and bought it as soon as possible. I loved the collar because of how much it reminded me of the Sybil and the Bella. Really the rest of the jacket is fine, but the collar was what I most wanted. Though it is designed with a drawstring, I knew I could probably (and eventually) figure out what to do to omit the drawstring and have it properly stand up.
I had to make a muslin to ensure I was using the correct measurements, and thankfully, they were pretty close to right. I did note that I needed to change up the way the side pleats on the back laid (they favored opening up to the center pleat and it didn't look right on me, so I chose to turn them into box pleats).
I am pleased that Vogue 8626 has cup sizes. I have a very small bustline, 32B if I am lucky, and I have noticed that any pattern that doesn't have specific cup measurements built in will often manifest themselves in a bit of wrinkling above my chest below my collarbone. The same thing happens when I wear a bra that is too big (which is a lot of the time, it is really hard to find a 32B bra that doesn't have underwire). This coat has an A cup bodice, and it is a dream fit up there. Seriously, hands thrown in the air, waving around, kind of fit. I know fuller-bust ladies get a lot of attention for having to make FBAs on their clothes, but for those of us who are wee-er up there than average, have to do the same thing if we want a good fit. People notice it less when things don't fit me properly since it doesn't mean gaping plackets or straining streams, but I get really bothered by those darn wrinkles.
This doesn't mean I am going to take on the challenge of the small bust adjustment every time I sew anything for my top half, but for tailored garments I darn well will. It is worth the effort!
BTW, the belt above is called a Martingale belt. I always just called it a "half-belt at the back," but now that I know what they are called, I am gonna throw that term around like it's hot. LOL.
So the collar, the most important portion of my coat in realizing my vision...turns out the McCall's 7024 is a great dupe for the Sybil coat. It is nearly the same. The Bella is a bit off, as the Bella collar sits on a faux collar stand. The way I made it stand just so was to interface the non-pleated side with fusible hair canvas on the bias (wanted it on the bias so it would be more easily molded when I was steaming it, on the straight grain I would have had a few more struggles to shape it since the straight grain prevents any stretching).
The buttons. Well, it turns out that even though I had chosen a near match for the Sybil coat (they seriously are the same buttons as the ones on my other coats, but red), I wanted to use a flatter, variegated reddish button instead. Now it fully is a coat that is "inspired by" but not a samesy copy.
Now that I have published this post I can actually start wearing the coat out and incorporating it into my ootd postings here and at Instagram. Yes! (I have to wait until the post publishes over there before I publish here.)
I know that some of you might have questions, so if you do, I encourage them. Maybe some of you can even make your own versions of the Sybil/Bella? I would love to see some more of these out there in the world of sewing. :-)
Monday, October 12, 2015
OOTDs: School Style September and Early October.
Quick reminder: Boden's big mid-season sale ends tonight. The details about the sale are in the original post here with updated information in the latest BWRR.
The extra 20% off Boden's spring 2015 preview ends on the 15th. I have plans to do a picks post tomorrow or Wednesday.
Onto the latest teacher outfits. :-) Note, unless I have something to mention outside of the teaching arena (after school and with family and friends), there won't be any anecdotes of the day in the teaching ootd posts.
Where: First Day of Teaching and a baseball game.
Ease of Wear: (4.5 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) I have made this skirt for myself before in a pretty blue and brown and white floral (last time I wore it and the original sewing review), so I expected this version would be a slam dunk fit-wise. (It was!) I love the stretch cotton sateen, it's even from Joann's, which if you are a sewer, usually indicates a fabric that may not be up to snuff. This one is...so pretty and looks like it will last a while.
Outfit Details: Skirt, handmade (Vogue 8916); Top, J. Crew; Shoes, A2 by Aerosoles; Shorts (from last photo), Boden; Necklace, J. Crew; Sunglasses, Anthropologie.
Anecdote of the Day: I was so stinking tired after school that day that I was *this* close to skipping out on the game. I probably should have, I actually closed my eyes a few times while watching the game, and considering I normally can't sleep anyplace other than a quiet, dark room in my bed, I nearly fell asleep in those hard chairs in the bright baseball lights. Yow.
Where: Teaching and church.
Ease of Wear: (4.25 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) I felt fine, but I was worn out from the day before, so the tiniest bit of irritation felt enhanced. This time it was the dress being just a skitch too tight on the upper hip. Since the dress is made of a cotton, it stretched out and was fine an hour after putting it on, but still. Boo.
Outfit Details: Dress, Boden; Shoes, J. Crew; Necklace, J. Crew; Sunglasses, Anthropologie.
Where: Teaching.
Ease of Wear: (4.5 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) Well this *dress* keeps getting shorter, but I am thinking I was more daring with my skirt length before I was teaching at the Catholic school. You really do need to have the skirts as long as the knee (or right there close to it), unless you are wearing it with leggings. So leggings it was! The whole outfit is wonderfully, deliciously comfortable. And it's a pretty print, so yay!
Outfit Details: Dress, J. Crew Factory; Shoes, J. Crew; Necklace, J. Crew; Sunglasses, Target.
Where: Teaching, Church, and CW's birthday dinner.
Ease of Wear: (4.5 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.)
Outfit Details: Dress, Ideology (from Macy's a gazillion years ago); Shoes, Cole Haan (similar here at amazon.com
); Necklace, Tiffany's; Sunglasses, Target.
Anecdote of the Day: CW's middle name is in honor our great grandmother (many greats added to it, of course) who had an apple variety in Minnesota named after her by my great grandfather (many greats there, too). CW's favorite color is pink. It was also her birthday that day, so wearing a pink, apple printed dress seemed especially appropriate. I also love that I looked like Ms. Frizzle. (#msfrizzleforever)
Where: Teaching.
Ease of Wear: (4.25 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) Lands' End really has something special with this ponte sheath dress. So much so that I plan on going back for another version of it soon. I wish it was a touch longer, but Lands' End lengthens their torsos on their dresses in the longs, so I can't purchase the long without it being too long in the bodice. Sigh. I am fine with it where it ends but would add an inch in an ideal world.
Outfit Details: Dress, Lands' End; Shoes, Boden; Cardigan, Anthropologie; Sunglasses, Target.
Where: Teaching and church.
Ease of Wear: (4.5 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) Well I caved on this year's version of the Casual Weekend Dress. I love last year's so much, and I love this green polka dot print (I have a long dress from Boden in this exact print from 2006!), I knew I would love this dress. I do! It is super cute, and the pockets are fab, of course.
Outfit Details: Dress, Boden (here on clearance
); Shoes, J. Crew; Necklace, Stella and Dot; Cardigan, J. Crew; Sunglasses, Target.
The extra 20% off Boden's spring 2015 preview ends on the 15th. I have plans to do a picks post tomorrow or Wednesday.
Onto the latest teacher outfits. :-) Note, unless I have something to mention outside of the teaching arena (after school and with family and friends), there won't be any anecdotes of the day in the teaching ootd posts.
Day: Thursday, September 3, 2015.
Where: First Day of Teaching and a baseball game.
Outfit Details: Skirt, handmade (Vogue 8916); Top, J. Crew; Shoes, A2 by Aerosoles; Shorts (from last photo), Boden; Necklace, J. Crew; Sunglasses, Anthropologie.
Anecdote of the Day: I was so stinking tired after school that day that I was *this* close to skipping out on the game. I probably should have, I actually closed my eyes a few times while watching the game, and considering I normally can't sleep anyplace other than a quiet, dark room in my bed, I nearly fell asleep in those hard chairs in the bright baseball lights. Yow.
Day: Friday, September 10, 2015.
Where: Teaching and church.
Outfit Details: Dress, Boden; Shoes, J. Crew; Necklace, J. Crew; Sunglasses, Anthropologie.
Day: Thursday, September 17, 2015.
Where: Teaching.
Outfit Details: Dress, J. Crew Factory; Shoes, J. Crew; Necklace, J. Crew; Sunglasses, Target.
Day: Friday, September 18, 2015.
Where: Teaching, Church, and CW's birthday dinner.
Outfit Details: Dress, Ideology (from Macy's a gazillion years ago); Shoes, Cole Haan (similar here at amazon.com
Anecdote of the Day: CW's middle name is in honor our great grandmother (many greats added to it, of course) who had an apple variety in Minnesota named after her by my great grandfather (many greats there, too). CW's favorite color is pink. It was also her birthday that day, so wearing a pink, apple printed dress seemed especially appropriate. I also love that I looked like Ms. Frizzle. (#msfrizzleforever)
Day: Thursday, October 8, 2015.
Where: Teaching.
Ease of Wear: (4.25 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) Lands' End really has something special with this ponte sheath dress. So much so that I plan on going back for another version of it soon. I wish it was a touch longer, but Lands' End lengthens their torsos on their dresses in the longs, so I can't purchase the long without it being too long in the bodice. Sigh. I am fine with it where it ends but would add an inch in an ideal world.
Outfit Details: Dress, Lands' End; Shoes, Boden; Cardigan, Anthropologie; Sunglasses, Target.
Day: Friday, October 9, 2015.
Where: Teaching and church.
Ease of Wear: (4.5 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) Well I caved on this year's version of the Casual Weekend Dress. I love last year's so much, and I love this green polka dot print (I have a long dress from Boden in this exact print from 2006!), I knew I would love this dress. I do! It is super cute, and the pockets are fab, of course.
Outfit Details: Dress, Boden (here on clearance
I hope you have a great night! :-) Thanks for reading! I am glad I am back with something other than Boden sales alerts for once. LOL.
Thursday, April 2, 2015
OOTD: It Matches!
Before I start the post, I wanted to congratulate Julie, she won the NOVICA $50 giveaway. Random.org gave me the result of #18 of 20 entries, and that was Julie's comment. I will email Julie with more information. Very excited Julie gets to enjoy some NOVICA shopping. :-)
Day: Tuesday, March 31, 2015.
Where: Substituting for the upper grade's Spanish teacher.
Ease of Wear: (4.25 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) Skirt was made by me back when (here is the original post on its construction), and I have lost a couple of pounds since then, so it fits very well now and is very comfortable. The Tippi sweater from J. Crew is also amazing, I know there are lots of women who are fans (and own multiple colors) but I haven't really dipped into the Tippi pool, outside of a handful of versions from years past. I am a fan, but I don't actively seek out having multiples of it.
The only ding came from the loafers, which fit fine, but after standing all day in class and then walking to Harris Teeter on my break (in warmish weather), I found they felt really small and were rubbing against my feet uncomfortably. So I went ahead and purchased those "half-socks" from the grocery store and that helped a bunch.
Outfit Details: When I made this skirt, I was thinking I would have no problem matching tops to it, but I was surprised by how hard it was. I either just don't buy these shades and can't get things to work with it, or the print has a very specific look and needs something especially unfussy for it to work with it. I had tried regular white tee-shirts and blouses, but it was too plain, however anything with any amount of print or sequins or embellishments was too much. The top I wore with it originally is fine, but I want to sell that one as I don't really love it. I did not purchase the Tippi with the intent of matching the skirt (I just really loved the color), but found that it was exactly the right shade for my skirt.
Long story short, lol, is that you can find the Tippi here at J. Crew (this is the heather aqua shade).
Anecdote of the Day: The big burly cashier at Harris Teeter really liked the old school J. Crew necklace and said it perfectly matched the skirt. LOL. I love it when people you don't expect to be into style are into it. :-)
I am not 100% ready to reveal the dress on me yet, as I still have hemming of the skirt and sleeves to do, but I know that a lot of you are both fans of sewing and of Boden, so I kind of figured you would be into seeing my latest project, which is my Easter dress. It is New Look 6262 and is supposed to be a close approximation of Boden's Rosalyn dress. I had originally ordered the Rosalyn dress, but after the huge mess of the preorder and my card company having problems with the double charges showing up, I decided to cancel my order and just make the darn thing instead.
The floral fabric (called Waverly Blossom Boutique Twill Aurora) is actually a home decor fabric, but it is lightweight enough to work with this pattern. I have to admit to preferring this floral pattern to the one Boden used. And based upon the fact that I know the Boden version's bodice would have likely been too long for my short torso, I was glad to have creative control and a tape measure in my hands to ensure my version wasn't too long. I also decided to add a back invisible zip instead of a side zip, so I won that way, too.
It's not that I don't love the Rosalyn version, in fact, seeing it on AudreyBella made me realize it is a very beautiful garment, but knowing I could make my own gave me fuel to just get it done. I also had enough fabric left over to make my daughter a version, and so far so good. Wish me luck on getting that one done in time.
If you would like to see the nearly finished version above on me, I gave the Instagram folks a sneak peek last night.
Here is a close-up of the fabrics. The eyelet broderie fabric is from Fabric Mart last year and is definitely not around anymore.
Okay, that's it for now. :-)
Real quickly, before I go, Boden has upped their mid-season sale to 50% off on some items
, including a lot of the ones I have reviewed (Rainbow Knit sweater, French Knot sweater, etc.), so go on over to this post to learn more about the sale. (The post says "up to 40%," but it was written earlier this week.)
Day: Tuesday, March 31, 2015.
Where: Substituting for the upper grade's Spanish teacher.
Ease of Wear: (4.25 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) Skirt was made by me back when (here is the original post on its construction), and I have lost a couple of pounds since then, so it fits very well now and is very comfortable. The Tippi sweater from J. Crew is also amazing, I know there are lots of women who are fans (and own multiple colors) but I haven't really dipped into the Tippi pool, outside of a handful of versions from years past. I am a fan, but I don't actively seek out having multiples of it.
The only ding came from the loafers, which fit fine, but after standing all day in class and then walking to Harris Teeter on my break (in warmish weather), I found they felt really small and were rubbing against my feet uncomfortably. So I went ahead and purchased those "half-socks" from the grocery store and that helped a bunch.
Outfit Details: When I made this skirt, I was thinking I would have no problem matching tops to it, but I was surprised by how hard it was. I either just don't buy these shades and can't get things to work with it, or the print has a very specific look and needs something especially unfussy for it to work with it. I had tried regular white tee-shirts and blouses, but it was too plain, however anything with any amount of print or sequins or embellishments was too much. The top I wore with it originally is fine, but I want to sell that one as I don't really love it. I did not purchase the Tippi with the intent of matching the skirt (I just really loved the color), but found that it was exactly the right shade for my skirt.
Long story short, lol, is that you can find the Tippi here at J. Crew (this is the heather aqua shade).
Anecdote of the Day: The big burly cashier at Harris Teeter really liked the old school J. Crew necklace and said it perfectly matched the skirt. LOL. I love it when people you don't expect to be into style are into it. :-)
I am not 100% ready to reveal the dress on me yet, as I still have hemming of the skirt and sleeves to do, but I know that a lot of you are both fans of sewing and of Boden, so I kind of figured you would be into seeing my latest project, which is my Easter dress. It is New Look 6262 and is supposed to be a close approximation of Boden's Rosalyn dress. I had originally ordered the Rosalyn dress, but after the huge mess of the preorder and my card company having problems with the double charges showing up, I decided to cancel my order and just make the darn thing instead.
The floral fabric (called Waverly Blossom Boutique Twill Aurora) is actually a home decor fabric, but it is lightweight enough to work with this pattern. I have to admit to preferring this floral pattern to the one Boden used. And based upon the fact that I know the Boden version's bodice would have likely been too long for my short torso, I was glad to have creative control and a tape measure in my hands to ensure my version wasn't too long. I also decided to add a back invisible zip instead of a side zip, so I won that way, too.
It's not that I don't love the Rosalyn version, in fact, seeing it on AudreyBella made me realize it is a very beautiful garment, but knowing I could make my own gave me fuel to just get it done. I also had enough fabric left over to make my daughter a version, and so far so good. Wish me luck on getting that one done in time.
If you would like to see the nearly finished version above on me, I gave the Instagram folks a sneak peek last night.
Here is a close-up of the fabrics. The eyelet broderie fabric is from Fabric Mart last year and is definitely not around anymore.
Okay, that's it for now. :-)
Real quickly, before I go, Boden has upped their mid-season sale to 50% off on some items
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)








































