Made by Me File: Vogue Couturier 2439. It's a Valentino!

You can pretty much guarantee that if I am silent here AND on Instagram, I probably have been delving deep in sewing, and that was for sure the case this past week and weekend.  (I haven't even used Instagram from Saturday forward, and I blame the oversaturation of sewing for that, as Instagram couldn't be any easier to use.)

Anyhow, there is a Vintage Pattern contest running over at Pattern Review, and though I really (honestly!) don't care about winning, I like to have an excuse to make something, and this contest seemed the perfect kick in the behind to get my sewing mojo on and get a dress done in time for school to start (and with the perfect retro flair, the way I really like it).

I have in my stash of patterns this beautiful Vogue Couturier pattern from Valentino from 1970.  I have a real sickness for these older patterns.  There's also the Vogue Paris Original patterns that are lovely, too (I made this LaRoche pattern a few years back).  If I see that one or a few are for sale and they will suit me and fit me, I'll put in a bid on ebay or purchase them outright from Ebay. 

There is a lot of history on Vogue designer patterns, and this very recent (as in yesterday) article from the New York Times explores it a bit.  They even mention Valentino in the article. 

I knew most of what was in the article, but it always bears repeating, the garment on the cover of these patterns ARE the garment as designed and shown by the original designer, and the pattern makers from Vogue use that as their base for their patterns.  So I was basically recreating the original garment that Valentino crafted even before I was born.  This is still true today, and the Anne Klein dress that I copied was from an original from the Anne Klein line.

Obviously I really dig the style and silhouette of the dress and if a current designer or clothing company made a dress like this, I would want to buy it.  The pockets are integrated into the front dress design, and those belt carriers are part of the dress design, and are NOT added as a waistband feature from a waistband pattern piece.  Instead they are part of the dress front and pocket and dart pattern piece.  (All in one.  When you see the instructions below, you will agree with my hesitation in cutting my dress fabric in the convoluted design they wanted me to...of course it worked out, clearly, but I couldn't believe that design would lead to what you see above.)

The dress, as made up, is very pretty, but practical.  I made it from a double knit, so it is very comfortable and stretchy, but the pockets and belt add a level "I didn't know I needed these features until I had them here."  I now want all my dresses to have these details.  Especially the pockets, which are not your typical inseam pockets, hiding from the world.  These are integrated on the front and help showcase the unique seaming. 

Nearly all my belts fit in these carriers, and the fancier, jeweled belts helped create a more formal look, while this patent leather one suited a more casual outing, like teaching school, or going to church.

The mockneck is very comfortable, and though it could read frumpy, the sleeveless and fitted bodice help keep it from looking too dated.

Though I have few plans to wear the cloche with the dress, I did like the look, and would possibly pair the two for the right occasion.  :-)

The back was far less complicated than the front, but I will say the dart that extended from the back yoke to the hip was one of the longest I have ever encountered.  It also integrated the belt carriers into it, so there was a bit of finagling there, too.  There was also an additional back carrier that had to be created by making a welt insertion for the facing piece, and that terrified me that I would place the welt in the wrong place and ruin all my work.

Because my hips are larger than the pattern called for, I had to bring my seam allowances from waist down from 5/8" to 1/2".  If this had not been an a-line skirt, I would have likely had to add allowances to the pattern itself as no straight skirt from this era would ever fit me in a size 12 (the hips on a size 12 are a 34, I am that plus 5!).

The mockneck called for hook/eye closures that are hidden, but I wanted to use a loop/button closure.  I wish the loop was a bit tighter, but I don't think it totally ruins the look of the dress, either.

I love this fabric.  It was exactly right for the job.  The weight of the double knit means I can wear it in non-summer months, but it also meant I didn't have to try a designer pattern from 1970 in a non-stretch woven.  Plus, it even looks a bit like the original Valentino dress fabric (though I know that was likely a brocade of some sort).

Here's a good closeup of the fabric, the carriers, and the pocket detail.  So glad this all worked out.  :-)

Yeah, those are the (dang) clear directions.  But look at the illustration for #2, that was the shape I had to cut.  I mean, it makes sense how that becomes what you see on me, but it does require a bit of a leap of faith that it will all work out.

If you would like to see my pattern review, it is here.

In other news...before I even started my pretty Valentino dress, I had to complete this ridiculous Piranha costume.  I used Simplicity 2853 for the pattern, and yeah, I recognize it doesn't look a thing like the pattern shows.  That was because I took a lot of liberties with the design.  It all worked out and the swim team LOVED it (or was scared, rightly so).  What a monstrosity.  LOL.  :-)

Okay, that's all for now.  I hope all of you are doing well, and I'll be back soon. 

Boden: Fall 2016 Preview! And a Couple of Picks!

Textured Knit Skirt (here) and Textured Knit Top (here)

Before I start in on the Fall (Autumn) 2016 Boden Preview, I wanted to let you all know what I have been up to in my life.  :-)  As you may remember from last year, I made a full suit for my son for his First Holy Communion.

Well this year was CW's turn, and I made her a very fancy pants lace dress for her First Holy Communion.  Hers, though, is mine cloaked in lace.  I knew I wanted her to wear my original 1980s dress (which was also handmade for me), but it was needing an update.  At some point, I will write up a post on it since it took nearly as long as it took me to make Rex's suit, but it will be a bit.  Still working a lot, still sewing a lot, and still running around a lot.  I make amends with the blog every couple of weeks, but it definitely doesn't feel like enough.

Okay, so onto the Boden Preview.  When CC first mentioned it in the comments in this post, I went immediately to the site and nearly sobbed over the boring.  I was all, "that's it, they have officially determined they want nothing to do with the Boden they used to be, and I may just have to sit in a corner and sew up some happy dresses in Swedish folk prints instead."  (Which I probably still will do, lol.)

Today I realized I hadn't gone back, and they definitely updated from that first visit.  There are some really cute items, and I actually have a basket full of items.  I haven't done that in years!  That doesn't mean I will pull the trigger (don't love the way they charge cards for preview orders), but I know that I will likely want a few things this fall from them.

There is a code for 20% and it is 5D9T.  I don't get affiliate commissions on preview sales, so I know I can legitimately give the code.  :-)  (I can only give current season codes that the affiliate program gives me, I have one right now, it's in the sidebar and the bottom of this post.)

My picks list is short, but mainly out of necessity of time, which I only have spare bits of in each day.  I hope that you all will add your favorites to the list in the comments!

I obviously love the Textured Knit Top and Skirt at the top of this post, but I hesitate trying it myself with my pear shape.  I may give it a go, but I will probably hold off for the time being.

High Neck Top (here)

It's kind of weird, but so is my style.  I love the severe cut, and would definitely pair it with sleek pants (think cigarette shape) or a cute knit a-line skirt (tucked in, of course).  It also has pockets (!!!).

Mia Top (here)

This is a pretty little mid-century inspired silhouette with a fun print that isn't too wild.  It has a design in the back that reminds me of the back of my Martha dress (review here), and so maybe this is this year's name for the Martha of the past two years?

Fab Fit Tweed Blazer (here)

I love the Moon collaborations with Boden.  I own a few items from this partnership, and I adore them.  They wear well, come in beautiful shades, and are well priced for the craftsmanship and fabric.  This year's blazer is very modern-looking with its especially pointed lapels (they thinned them out, too).

Floral Ponte Dress (here)

I am always such a sucker for a border print, and in a ponte, well yum.  Body forgiving fabric, in a green ponte, with a border print?  Well, I am sold.

Hannah Seam Detail Dress (here)

I don't about this shape for me personally, but the pockets and the print are awesome.  The print is wee little birdies (that from far away read as an abstract).  Swoon.

High Neck Dress (here)

Sister to the High Neck top (above), this is just as beautiful, and because this color combo is more sedate, it is also more appealing to more people.  I am almost 110% sure my body shape wouldn't work with this style, but if it ends up coming up in the reviews it fits pear shapes well, I will definitely bite.

Lucinda Knit Dress (here)

It is the updated version of the Amelie Dress (see it here on me) that I know many of us loved.  This is super cute, but the colors are pretty blah, and I already own more than enough grey knit dresses for ten women, so I will say no.

Mia Knit Jersey Tunic Dress (here)

This is the second appearance of a Mia in this picks post.  :-)  I don't think this especially looks like my style or what I expect from Boden, but I dig it and want it.

So there were no accessories or shoes on show for us, and with the expiration of the 20% off code happening in a few days time (the 13th is the last date you can use it), I don't think they will have any on show for us this time around.

For those of you interested in current season styles/discounts for it, below is the link to the current sale.  You have to use code 3K9M to receive the 15% off, though.

Made by Me File: The Burda Magazine and the Anthropologie Jacquard.

I know most of you who read this blog read it because you just love clothing, and more than likely most of you are fans of the same brands I am, Boden, J. Crew, J. Crew Factory, Zara, Madewell, and Anthropologie.

(I do know some of you are here for the sewing, too, but that bit of my audience is much wee-er, so I try to keep the "style" element in these sewing posts as much as I can.)

Anyhow, I know some of you eagle-eyed fans of Anthropologie will IMMEDIATELY be able to recognize that this crop top and full skirt combo is made from a jacquard fabric that Anthropologie used in its Iremel skirt, which is from November 2013.  I cannot believe my luck.  With the actual Lilly Pulitzer fabric for this make a few months ago to this one, I feel like I have scored fabric gold, and both times by total accident.  :-)

Before I knew I had stumbled upon that fabric from that skirt by Anthropologie*, I had it in my mind to make up a crop top/full skirt combo after the success of the crop top/full skirt combo I made for my birthday.  So I told Fabric Mart they could send me this fabric if they wanted and I would make it work.

*You all are gonna laugh, but I discovered the skirt from Anthro by randomness, I was sitting around waiting for something, and I decided to paw through my old catalogs sitting nearby.  I opened up the November 2013 catalog and was all, "what the wha, is that the fabric?" I couldn't believe it!

I figured that because Burda magazine does the best job in staying on trend while also having the best drafting, I would do well to choose two patterns from their magazines I have been holding onto, but not tracing.  (Tracing their patterns are a bit of a pain, to be honest, but worth it in the end.)

The crop top from their February 2015 (02 2015 #127) seemed to be a very good version of a crop top, and with some work, I could make it work on my more "mature" self.  (I lived as a teenager in the early 90s, and yes, I wore crop tops back then, lol, so I figure I should only repeat it in small and more modest doses.)  The full skirt from their October 2010 (10 2010 #117) seemed a good fit for my full skirt requirement, but even though I thought I would be able to just sew it up as the pattern is, I realized fairly quickly that this fabric and that pattern wouldn't work as is, so I had to make some changes there, too.  Oh, well, I am not one to step back from small defeats, so I figured all of it out, with only a tiny bit of cursing.

When I showed my husband the nearly finished project, but before I had ironed the fabric in the skirt into submission, he was all, "why in the world would you want a skirt that big?"  He didn't have a word to say about the top, so apparently a bit of tummy skin is okay in his book.  Ha.

The top is a bit longer than the pattern called for in the initial draft.  I chose to lengthen it, not because it was a petite pattern and it was too short, but because I needed the extra bit of length if I had any hope in wearing it out more than for this set of photos.  In my life, too much skin is too much, and I can't get away with it.  I am petite from shoulder to my upper hip (I measure the same as someone who is around 5'3.5" there, even though I am 5'8" tall), so technically the proportions of the pattern are perfect on me.  I didn't make my adjustment on the pattern from anywhere but the hem since I love having a top where the shoulder seam to the bustline is the right length.  That normally never happens, and I usually get a weird bit of bunching there because it is too long.  I also love that the bust dart was pointing at my bust instead of somewhere else.  So the only way I could lengthen this pattern was to add at the hem so I could keep the integrity of the petite sizing as original as possible.  It did the trick and I was happy to see that it gave me a crop that was showing a bit of the belly without being too risky for my lifestyle.

I also chose to close up the back with a button closure instead of just having it hang open with a single closure at the top of the back.  Again, I want to wear this more than just once!  I drafted a facing that was incorporated into the pattern, so I just had to fold it over at the drafted fold line, press and sew in my buttonholes and buttons.  Because this fabric is so thick and tightly woven, I didn't even need any interfacing at the buttonholes, they sewed in very nicely and look quite well done (I am not usually so successful with buttonholes). 

I would say I spent the most of my time focused on the pattern layout on the fabric in order to get the lines/medallions to line up properly.  You can't take a bold striped jacquard like this and half finish the job...it would be very obvious that the lines are off and all the time and effort to sew up this pretty fabric would be somewhat in vain, since even non-seamstress eyes can see when tailoring is done shoddily.  So I would say 25% of my sewing time on this project was even before any of the sewing actually got started!  

The skirt, as drafted, had so much fabric used that I would have had to use four full yards of fabric to get this skirt made.  Come on!  That's Civil War era skirt sized.  The jacquard would have been too stiff and heavy to do that, and since I am not looking to create a look for a runway, I knew I would have to take those proportions down a notch (although in a lightweight cotton voile that much fabric and drape would look super pretty).  I took out something like fourteen full inches from this skirt's pattern (I just folded over my traced pattern paper) to still end up with a very large, very full, deeply pleated and gathered skirt.  I definitely made the right call to do that!

Amazingly enough, even with all that fabric, it isn't that heavy.  It was a bit of a bear to sew up, especially when hemming (more awkward, but still).  I am pleased, though, that it is as flowy as it looks in the photo.

The pockets are fab.  They sit precisely at the right place and fit a cellphone, no problem.  And because the skirt is so full, you wouldn't know the pocket holds a cellphone!

As much as I dig the crop top and full skirt look, especially since it is a bit different from my usual "look," I have to say the pieces separately work nicely with other pieces in my closet, like above with my J. Crew tee, Nine West wedges, and Target necklace.  This is actually a look I could wear to go to church or teach in, so that's a bit thrilling.  I don't think I can get away with the top at either place I just mentioned, but with a cami and a high-waisted pair of trousers, it would look pretty darling at a playdate or dinner out with friends.

Okay, that's it for now. 

I wrote a ton about the sewing and the history of crop tops/full skirts in fashion here at this Fabric Mart blog post.

I also wrote up a review of the construction of the crop top here at Pattern Review.

Thanks for coming by and looking at my latest make!

Made by Me File/OOTE: A Zara Inspired Birthday! Simplicity 1099 and New Look 6314.

Have you ever been fixated on a "look" and had to have it?  Well a few months ago Zara sold a beautiful sleeveless crop top and matching full skirt with pockets (photos are in the made by me portion towards the bottom) in a pretty African print fabric.  I was head over heels in love with the look.  So even though my normal sizes in Zara had sold out, I thought I would order the one size smaller and see if they fit, and of course they didn't (because Zara is teeny tiny sized).  I went to plan B afterwards and decided that if I couldn't have the exact Zara look, I could at least have a sewn by me version in a fabric just as pretty.

I didn't know when I would want it done by, but I figured if I could finish in time for my birthday (yesterday, yep, same as Canada Day/birthday of Gigi/Sufjan Stevens--he's even my exact freaking age), I could wear this beauty on a very special day.  Now admittedly I didn't finish it until 5:00 pm yesterday, but I took my time and didn't sweat over how long it was taking me, I just enjoyed it during the process.  I think I need to sew like that more in the future, it felt great instead of "OMG I AM NEVER EVER GOING TO FINISH!"

First up is the OOTE portion, followed by the Made by Me File.

Day: Wednesday, July 1, 2015.

Where: Winesday with my brother and our favorite Mexican restaurant for dinner.

Ease of Wear: (4.5 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.) Hey! I made it! For me! So it was very easy to wear.  I only put a 4.5 because the Winesday at Whole Foods and the restaurant were blasting the AC and I spent half of the time freezing my a$$ off.

I didn't even have to wear a bra, btw, since the crop top is lined and interfaced, and because I have no real "anything" up there, that's all the support I need.  So even more comfy than usual.  ;-)

Outfit Details:  Top, Simplicity 1099; Skirt, New Look 6314; Sandals, J. Crew here; Sunglasses, Anthropologie.

Anecdote of the Day:  Normally for my birthday dinner we head to sushi, but we took my dad there for Father's Day, and with our budget being so tight, I decided to make my birthday dinner be less expensive, so we went to the Mexican restaurant where we usually go for all birthdays.  It was fun to wear the sombrero.  Pictures are in this Instagram.

INSTAGRAM of the outfit HERE.

Above is the Zara outfit I fell in love with and so desperately wanted to be able to fit into, even though I am a reasonable person and *know* that a Zara size small top and size medium bottom would never ever fit me.  LOL.

After returning the above to the store, I kept in mind what I loved about the outfit, the length of the skirt, the pockets, the ease of two pieces working together, the silhouette, and the beautiful print.  I also decided to change a few things up on my version, including using a top pattern that was a touch longer overall, doing something different to the back of the top, and changing up the neckline.

Enter Simplicity 1099 for the Top and New Look 6314 for the skirt.  Initially I was planning on using the skirt from the 1099 pattern, but it required a whole lot of fabric, even in the shorter skirt, and I would prefer that my skirt not have that much volume, especially for summer.  I may try that skirt with a more formal fabric for winter, but for summer, the NL 6314 fits the bill quite nicely.

The basic idea of this look is close to the Zara images.  Obviously the fabric is very different, but graphically still very bold and colorful.  I bought this fabric from Fabric Mart (it is a Maggy London print--she used it this way in a different colorway), but it sold out.  However, Emma One Sock has a blue version for sale right now, but again, that one will likely sell out, too.

I appreciate that this top and skirt combo does appear to be a dress when worn *just so*.  By the end of the night, the fabric had loosened up a bit and the skirt was riding a touch lower, but only the barest amount of my belly was exposed, so it felt more retro 50s/60s than crazy 80s/90s crop tops.

The NL pattern wanted me to place my skirt pieces on the bias, and while that would have made for a cool print placement and a bit more drape, I didn't need the bias to help with stretch since this sateen fabric has a good amount of lycra in it.  Ultimately I decided to ignore the instructions on placing the pattern pieces on the bias and make the print properly line up with the top, whose pattern pieces said to place them on the straight grain.

I added pockets, using the ones from the Simplicity pattern.  They were fine, although I took off the extraneous bit at the top (it had extra fabric on it as it was supposed to be integrated with the waistband).  They could be a bit deeper, but otherwise I was happy with them as a design detail.

I also chose to make the skirt close up in back, with a zip there, instead of at the side.  It meant adding a seam allowance to the back waistband and back skirt pieces, but that bit of extra work took very little time, but makes getting in and out the skirt a whole lot easier for me.  

The top was interesting in that it called for interfacing all of the lining pieces.  I mean every single one.  I think the decision is sound, though, since it gives the top a lot of structure, meaning if you are as small up top as I am, you can go without the bra (though the back is high enough that as long as you are in a strapless or convertible bra you can wear one, too).  In essence, I made two tops, sewed them up together, but cut out 12 total items (four main fabric, four lining, and four interfacing).  As I wanted to keep the fabric stretchy, I decided to use a stretch fusible interfacing that is meant for knits. It worked well with my cotton stretch lining.

The construction of the top was very precise.  I want to encourage you, if you try this pattern, to make sure to mark all the circles very well and the match points very well.  If you don't, it will be very hard to make the cross back straps work, and to make the princess seams properly line up together.  You also really do need to follow the directions as best you can, and in the right order.  They are involved, but worth the effort.  I still managed to do something wrong, though, and instead of having a clean, enclosed hem, I ended up having to fold under both the lining and main fabric together 5/8", press them, and then carefully topstitch them to create a hem. It is okay, but not nearly as nice as a hidden hem would have been.

I think I love the back as much as the front.  Look at those gorgeous cross back straps!  And sizing wise, they were exactly the right length on me instead of being too long (usually my issue in my upper body is that there--too long straps).

Sizing wise, I made both pieces in a size 12.  I really think I would have done better to make the top in a 10, because there is a bit of excess fabric around my bust and underarms, but I am not super stressed about it enough to go and purchase the next size of patterns down.  (However if Simplicity has another 1.00 per pattern sale at Joann's, I will likely pick it up.)  In a non-stretchy fabric, I would make the 12, though.  The skirt is fine in a 12, though I more closely measure to the 14 or 16.  The hips are free, so that helps, and my waist is smaller.  NL patterns run small in the waist.  In some companies I can wear a 10 in the skirts if the skirts are a-line, but not NL.  I saw this in the Easter dress I made from one of their patterns.

If you look closely at the skirt, you will see my hem has a stitched hem detail.  That is actually a serged edge.  I serge all my hems on my items that I sew, but this time, after finishing, I tried it on, loved the length on me, and also loved the way the serged hem looked, so I kept it.  I don't normally leaving serging visible, but this time it suited the design.  :-)

I am planning on writing these pieces up at Pattern Review, so I will update the links to their pages when I finish each of them.  That is so those of you who would like to learn more about the process can see what I did in greater detail.

Pattern Review of Simplicity 1099 Top.
Pattern Review of New Look 6314 Skirt.

Alrighty, you all have a great day!  Hope everyone's July is off to a great start!

Boden: The Curious Case of the Culotte.

Boden Culottes--You can find them here, if you want to.

Since joining Instagram, I really have been opened to a whole world of new experiences, including the ever present "reposted" Instagram, which happens when a company spies one of their items on a user's Instagram photo and wants to share the image with their followers.  But it isn't exclusive to companies, apparently anyone can repost anything they desire.  I see it all the time.  I haven't partaken, nor had any of my images reposted, but at 228 followers on Instagram, I am likely a long way away from that (reposted images are from people who have thousands of followers, not a couple hundred).  Anyhow, recently I happened upon a "repost" from an Instagram user who was none to excited about an Instagram she saw at #boden_clothing, which featured a cute girl wearing a summer outfit from Boden that included these above shorts.  Or culottes, if you stretch the definition. (Culottes are technically a skirt that has a split up the middle so that is seamed so that they function as shorts but appear to be a skirt.  This pair above don't really look skirt-like to me, at all. Here is a pair of modern culottes that look like what I expect.)

The original Instagram appeared here at Kim Loves Cloth's Instagram account.*  She received many compliments on her embroidered top, and it does look very cute on her, but no comments on her culottes.  The second time this Instagram appeared was at the "official" Boden Instagram page here.  That time the compliments were fewer and farther between, but still a smattering for the top, and at least one, maybe two for the shorts.  The vast majority were very very opinionated and put off that these shorts were even being offered.  The range of disgust ranged from "too 80s" to "why would you do this to a woman?"  Hmm.  The third time (and this is how I saw it) was at the hashtag I use a lot #bodenbyme, which is the one Boden has encouraged us to use to show off our Boden clothing as we style it.

*They were also featured at her blog at this post.

So here it is, in the form that I saw it.  Same image, but presented by an individual Instagram user in a repost (but directly calling Boden out by using the @boden_clothing, so they would see it) at the #bodenbyme Instagram page.  Her thoughts were very direct.  NOPE.  That's all she said.  And that was all that she needed to say.  The comments were actually kinder at this repost than the one Boden reposted, but were still not incredibly positive regarding the curious case of the culottes.

I have my thoughts, but I am curious about yours?  What say you on the culottes?  :-)

OOTD/Made by Me File: Rosalyn's Easter. New Look 6262 and New Look 6335.

Day: Sunday, April 5, 2015.

Where:  Easter services and Easter lunch/supper.

Ease of Wear: (4.25 of 5 stars--5 being the most easy to wear.)  I had constructed the dress myself with my sizing in mind, so I was very comfortable.  The only thing that bugged a bit was the underarm portion, which makes me fear that I have even more of a square shoulder adjustment to do the next time I sew up this pattern.  (I don't have a lot of fluff up top, but my shoulders go up at the end instead of sloping down, and since the patterns are all drafted for a much more sloped shoulder than I have, I always have to do a "square shoulder adjustment."  I thought I had done enough of one here, but I must need another 1/8 to 1/4 inch to be truly comfortable.)

Outfit Details:  Dress, made from New Look 6262; Shoes, Target; Tilly Cardigan, J. Crew (available here); Necklace, J. Crew.

Anecdote of the Day:  So in Mississippi and apparently this part of Indiana, people say supper instead of lunch.  Or is it dinner at lunch and supper is what I call dinner?  I don't know, lol.  Here in Northern Virginia, and maybe the rest of the state, supper is dinner, if we say supper at all.  I find it all so fascinating. 

I say yard sale instead of garage sale and every big road (interstates, freeways, etc.) are highways.  Other states round here do the same, but you go further west/north and the differences in terms are more pronounced.  Speaking of pronounced, if you really want to have some fun, ask a Virginian to pronounce either Fauquier county or Norfolk.  Trust me.

Do you have any local idioms that are a dead giveaway you are from somewhere? 

New Look 6262.  Without fail, I knew that I would likely be making the size 10 at the top bit (hey my absent flat-chested self), but because of the smaller waist measurement on the tissue, I decided it would be smart if I made the rest of the dress below the bust in a size 12.  It worked out great, and though I could have maybe squeezed into the 10 at the waist (the hips would have been fine, obviously), the 12 gave me a lovely amount of ease.

I specifically chose the fabrics because I really wanted to make the Rosalyn Dress from Boden since the debacle with my preview orders about two months back.  I didn't ever intend for this to be my Easter dress, but I was so fired up about the way Boden handled processing the credit that I CANCELED my order and got in my head that I could make something just as great as what I canceled.  The top bit is made from a cotton lace broderie fabric I bought from Fabric Mart last year, and the bottom is a home decor print from Waverly (Blossom Boutique Twill Aurora) I knew would look nice with the lace. 

I love how many options New Look 6262 gave me in terms of necklines, sleeves, etc.  I chose the cap sleeve with the scoopneck option, and made sure to follow the instructions for the lace version at least in the bodice.  It asked me to underline versus line my bodice, and so that is what I did.  It did feel a bit odd to underline (I used a stretchy cotton poplin fabric for that) and then use a facing, but the result was great, so I am not questioning it.  I clearly did not need to underline the skirt, but I did end up adding pockets, which I grabbed from Butterick 5211 (they were absolutely perfect as is).

Back view.  I didn't have any long white invisible zips at the house, but because they are invisible, except for the top pull, I just used a baby blue that matched the skirt perfectly.  It is fine!

The Rosalyn dress doesn't have a back zip and since I prefer back to side zips, AND I prefer this floral to the one they have on theirs, I am claiming sewing success on this dress.  I love it way more than the Rosalyn.  Rare for me to say this, but Dina 1--Boden 0.

Rosalyn Dress.  Still a very pretty dress, just not for me.  I think had all of the credit processing been more normal (or at least more timely in dropping the extra charges placed on my account), I would have gone with this one and not even been tempted to sew my own.  Ultimately I was glad I did since I also had enough fabric left over for my daughter's Easter dress, too.  If you do like this dress, it is on sale right now, for 20% off.

For CW's matching dress (which Boden has no version of for their mini line) I used New Look 6335 for sleeves and skirt, while rest is Simplicity 1211.  Since she is a wee girl with few curves, she is super easy to fit (and that makes this super easy to sew, too), but I did decide to make the skirt from one long rectangle rather than three rectangles (one for the front piece and two for the back pieces with a zip in the middle).  This means that her skirt has no side seams but does have a back seam that meets up with the middle back seam of the bodice.  I could have used a zip that went all the way down into her skirt, but again, girl with no curves, so I just added a small 7 inch zip at the top of the bodice and called it a day.  If she does get big enough that I need to add a longer zip, I have the infrastructure in place to do so.  I don't see any big difference between her skirt fullness and the one on the New Look 6335 package.  Hers is plenty full enough but uses far less fabric.  I tell you those girls dresses require SO much skirt fabric.  Ridiculous.  This is like the tenth time I have chosen not to use the full amount because I refuse to waste fabric if the end result will only look marginally different.

I do want to mention two things--

1. Gathering has always been a bit of a bear for me.  This time I did the proper three rows of gathering on the longest stitch length and then pulled them up to the length needed to match the bodice pieces.  In order to make sure the gathers didn't get folded down and smooshed by the presser foot, I made the *bold,* lol, decision to decrease my foot pressure on my machine.  Why in the world I hadn't done that before is beyond me, but wow, what a difference.  I still had to take it nice and slow and maneuver the gathered bits properly so they wouldn't get misshapen by the machine and the foot, but the gathers lie nice and prettily rather than skewing to one side as they want to do if I leave the presser foot pressure at the higher amount.  (They skew towards the opposite side that the presser foot is approaching from, so if the presser foot comes from the left on the wrong side, the gathers all skew to the right on the front, probably barely noticeable, but it drives me batty.)

2. I have laundered these dresses on delicate, in a cold wash, and hung them to dry.  They came out great, even though the skirt fabric recommends dry cleaning.  Just a bit of a "go on and do it" for those of you wondering if you should.  ;-)

I wrote up a pattern review on my dress here at Pattern Review.  It has a bit more of the technical dealings for those of you that care.

I will write up the pattern review for CW's dress soon.  When I do that I will update this blog post.

Okay, you all have a great night!!!  

Boden Weekly Review Roundup: Such a Long Time! Back with a Seatown and a Sale.

Hi, all! 

It has been a long time, both for updating the blog and having a review roundup. 

I returned from our Illinois/Indiana trip (I instagrammed a ton of it, btw) on Sunday and since my return I have been subbing and sewing.  I finished up both and while you can't see the fruits of my subbing labor, you can definitely view my sewing labor here at this Fabric Mart blog post.

Boden is having a "tax season" sale right now.  It is all that is going on, as far as I can tell.  All of my coupons have expired, and even though I emailed the affiliate program on Thursday asking them when the coupons would be back, I haven't heard back from them (sigh).  I did see the "tax season" promo, and was at least able to get that sale link up as well as announce it over at the facebook page, but I know a lot of you want the coupons, and the moment they come back to the affiliate program, I will absolutely let you know and put them up in the sidebar!  The sale right now is on select items, there are a lot of them in the sale, so if you have your eyes on something from earlier this season (with a few from the first summer rollout), you will likely see it in the sale.  Currently the items in the sale are for 20% off, so a fairly decent discount, especially if you think you would wear the items sooner than later.  The sale ends tomorrow night (Sunday, 4/19), btw.

Seatown Shirt Dress.  Size 6 Long.  I went with my normal "fit and flare" size in this dress and it was perfect, maybe even a bit too big (it stretches out from the cotton/linen blend), but I am keeping it because I think I am more than happy with the way it feels and looks, and doubt going down a size will make it better.  And hey, what is better than a looser fitting summer dress when the temps are in the 90s with saturating humidity?

Love the pockets, obviously, but the openings are a bit small, so it isn't super easy to get your hands in them.

The sleeves are not proper set-in sleeves, rather they are cut-on sleeves, which adds to its retro look.  You can see an example of a dress from the 50s with cut-on sleeves here and it looks really close to this dress, so bravo on keeping it true to era, Boden!

The smallest bit of this dress is the waist, so size for that.  I have between a 28-29 inch waist, and the 6 was more than fine.  Like I said above, I could have gotten away with the 4, but that waist tie does allow me to cinch it in more if I so desire.

The length is awesome in the long, skimming right below my knee.  I wore this to church tonight and it was appropriate for that occasion, but I in no way felt frumpy or stuffy, either.

I typically get pooling at the back of my shirts and dresses, but here there is none, which means that there is ample room in the skirt for my bottom AND the bodice itself is short enough for my shorter torso.  So keep this in mind if you have a longer torso, it may run too short from waist up for you.

I look slightly pregnant here.  I am not with child, lol.  Just a reminder that with this poofier skirt to stand in a way that doesn't just your hipbones slightly forward lending itself to the "with child" appearance.  I suspect if I had more up top I would look less pregnant, but since that WILL NEVER be in my cards (outside of surgery), I need to properly stand up.  ;-)

This print is so beautiful.  Really very unique and special.  Love the red buttons, too.


Seatown Shirt Dress.  This color and the navy/white dots version are selling very well.  Only one of the colors is in the 20% off sale, the orange/green palms version.


Tilly Sweater.  I wore mine again in the last month (and again in Chicago, those pictures will come later, but you can see it on Instagram if you desire).  I am so glad I purchased this one!  This one is on sale, but most of the small sizes are sold out.


Verity Dress.  Lou wore this recently to work.  What a pretty dress for her!  :-)



Leather Sandals and Colourblock Breton.  Lou gave these two Johnnie b. items a go and reviewed them for us.  





Soho Boots, Honor Top, Embellished Floral Top, and Perfect Party Top.  Avril went for some of the Johnnie b., too, in her recent try-on of some gorgeous sale items.  Check them all out here at this post.







Casual Dip Back Sweater, Sundowner Dress, Pretty Pleat Skirt, The Shirt, Pall Mall Dress, and Printed Jersey Shirt.  A Pear to Remember went through her Boden spring choices, giving us a great review for each one of the above.



Wideleg Jeans and Florence Skirt.  Audrey Bella took some time to review these two for us here. 




Seatown Shirt Dress, Broderie Jersey Dress, and Rosalyn Dress.  Audrey Bella also gave these a try on and shared her thoughts about them here. 

BTW, I finished up my "dupes" of the Rosalyn Dress for my daughter and me.  We wore them on Easter.  I did a review of the sewing pattern here, and eventually (sooner than later, I hope), I will make sure to do the OOTD/Made by Me post here at the blog.



Alice High Heel and Eliza Tunic Dress.  These seem to be quite popular at Boden, and after seeing them on Lizzy, I can see why!  She also wore them with the Eliza Tunic Dress here. 



Ava Dress and Holland Park Dress.  We have a new blog friend joining us today, Amy from Shopping and Sewing, which you know means she and I may just be twins.  LOL.  Anyhow, she gave us a look see at these two pretty dresses here at this blog post.


Lara Coat.  Amy from Shopping and Sewing gives us a look at this pretty coat, too!

Okay, that's all for now!  I am glad to be back and really glad to share all these great reviews with you!  Thank you to all my blog friends for their reviews.  :-)

Spring Tax Sale! Enjoy 20% off select styles at Boden USA!